I'm beginning to think that you could pull the stock can out and put in an a9 or 11 and it may be worse in duration and lift, is there no standard for Chinese motors, you would think all the 150cc motors would be some what similar in specs, I was looking on amazon.com today and just for chuckles put in gy6 scooter motors, you should see the crap in there, cams ,heads,barrels, stators, one thing about the Chinese they sure flood the market with parts. No offense, think I will stick with my Yami, I'm afraid to touch it, it just runs so well, keep up the good work guys I find this interesting. When Chuck was around more, at least he had a pretty good handle on the good ,bad and the ugly.
Yep I understand, actually I think I'm over shooting here, 11:1 or 11.5:1 is what I might aim for. If I have to weld a cam myself and grind it on a make shift jig I'll do it. I see the gx200 guys have some nice 246 degree duration cam. I'll have to figure out what our valvetrain can handle. More than likely I'll be doign that by trial and error using lift figures from the cams we already have.
Very nice riding in a exotic part of the world . ya may wanna check the brake light adjustment on the dudes scoot with the Blue shirt on, that brake light is on like all the time. or he may be riding the brakes I dunno In fact must be the rear brake, left hand lever cuz his hand goes off the right grip and the brake light is still on.. Thanks for posting this..
I just really wanna know my stock cam numbers to compare to a A-11 and A-9 in My hands to know were to go from there. With a Longer duration cam compared to what we have offered could make power up thru 9,000 rpm and run reliably with the proper fuel at 12:5-1 or more. But then we don't have any worthy Valve Springs Period. Ive been puttinf off contacting PSI to try to match something up.
Im of sure no guru on the subject, know a few things, have some experience with some things. Im not a fan of higher compression for the sake of higher compression, when we add duration to the cam and figure the valve overlap we are bleeding off compression so thats why we raise it to work with the longer duration cam profiles, , if you max squish that stock cam motor you have a hell of a time trying to get it to not detonate with c-12 gas and advancing the timing a ton. I don't think its the hot setup.. The cam in my 385 ci small block has 288 degrees of intake and 294 degrees of exhaust duration and figures to be 71 degrees of overlap. lets say she idles CHOPPY and ROUGH!!!! with 1.75" diameter full 32inch length with 3x8' collector headers sounds very Healthy! Recommended minimum compression ratio for this Cam is 9:5-1 and mine is 10:5, with a Iron Block and Aluminum heads with some other improved cooling I Can run 93 octane with 36degrees of timing but I run a 50/50 of a Cam 2 for insurance and race with straight Cam2.. One of the reasons I purchased the Taida Ceramic composite bore cylinder is it better dissipates heat so I can run more compression with the same octane fuel, yup ya gotta bore the cases but I think its worth it if your going to to go for a Higher Compression GY.
That's part of the English side, on the Scottish side there are about 8 differant plaids and the same in plaques, I've gone back to 1500 and something on the Scottish side but when the Germans blew England all to hell a lot of those records were lost, still look every so often, might even try one of those DNA test things hahahaha I might be Viking or Roman.