No, running voltage should be around 14.7 and the battery when the engine off at 12 volts... These are considered perfect voltages and ideal.....Most real world examples are not ideal and have variances +/- of a volt or two..... I am super slammed, I will be on the forum to chat when time allows.
NO. Those were just examples of differences in these engines that I know of first hand and trying to illustrate the point that these engines are not all the same, they're different. I have not profiled all the the OEM cams to see if they're different.... I'm thinking the cam profile is what ultimately will determine the valve lash, I just don't remember off hand.... But again, I don't have the cam profiles to prove it..... However, I do have the engine math books and can look any of this up.... What I know is this (for a fact) Not all these GY6's are the same. There are subtle differences and in my opinion, it's best to err on the side of caution and go with the plate stamped on the scooter. -------------------------------------------- The whole reason this thread exist is an attempt to stop the non-sense like this..... Time and time again, I see people recommending valve lash be adjusted to .03mm-in/.05mm-ex... This is what is recommended on most of the 50cc stamps I have came across....I have never seen a 150cc with anything lower than a .05mm on the intake valve.... After these thing heat up and thermal expansion takes place, if the valves are too tight, the thing won't run.... So really, I am at a loss for what kind of point you're even trying to make.... If I understand your intention, it's to tell everyone to ignore the engine stamp that comes on their scooter and "write their own"???? If so, (and I hope you don't take this as being rude, not my intention) I find that to be misguided..... And take note, I do understand emission plates and manuals have their errors.... But not ALL of them.... Especially when it comes to the higher quality scooters.
I can't say for a buggy, not enough experience with them... However, in a scooter, that's way, WAY to many belts.... There's not much that can cause belt wear in that way... Bad clutch pulley or variator could cause that, but if either pulley was bad enough to shred the belts, you would probably be able to see it..... So, just to speculate a bit, is it possible that your engines original variator and clutch are different from the ones on a scooter? Because this is my thought - If the two pulleys (variator and clutch pulley) aren't lined and the belt runs at an angle (aka un-even), that would wear a belt in the exact way that's happening to yours.... The fact that the top of the belt is coming apart is a good indicator something is out of alignments.... If it were RPM's or belt slippage I would suspect the belt damage on the inside of the belt, not the outside....
Got it..... BTW, A couple of notes.... If I were you, I would buy a can of this stuff - LINK and spray the bung area.... It's great paint for exhaust and the flat black blends the colors as one. I use it all the time on exhaust, but right now I'm out.... But if you do not paint it, it will rust very quickly. And while I'm on the subject, the copper washer you see is actually a "copper crush ring"... They're use once (they create a seal) so I have not tightened it down (you may want to remove the ring for painting).... Use 7/8 to tighten.... If you want, I can do it for you, but like I said, they're use once (but cheap at like 15 cents each, LOL) And note on the exhaust manifold, I will dissemble for shipping so when you put the manifold back on the muffler, I strongly, STRONGLY advise high strength loctite. Do not use high strength on the 02 bung cap as that is something you may want to take back out to use a sensor. Use the regular/low strength stuff on the bung.
Yeah, it is part of the crankcase, I have no clue how the reverse works on these ones with inner reverse.... But you're likely correct that the reverse is all in the gear box.... For the D-shape thing in the CVT, I think it has something to do with the massive sprocket on the crankshaft.... This is what I meant... (And yes, I did edit your post to get rid of the duplicate images (I didn't need a space-bar for that - LOL ))
How you get them out of your post is delete the picture from the post by putting your cursor next to the pic and hitting backspace.... If you click the actual delete button by the attachment features, it will not work.... It's a stupid glitch with the forum... Another way to get rid of it is to clean out your browser cache.
Here we go, I went and snapped some pictures of the one I have. Note the Oxygen sensor bung (port)..... I install a bung on every exhaust I own. In my opinion, every scooter should come from the factory with an O2 sensor.... These engines run great when tuned correctly!
I'm not sure, but my is the same as yours, I believe it has something to do with that sprocket....Maybe part of the internal reverse? I really am tempted to take it all apart but sourcing gaskets to put it back together will be a pain.
Here's some pics Take note of the one with the red arrow... The sprocket the arrow is pointing at is the one I'm talking about.... And BTW, this engine crankshaft does not have the kickstart gear taper.
And just in case it was missed, this is not a scoot motor.... Here's a link to what it comes on - LINK