No other will or can deliver "Back Home again in Indiana" like Jim. Yes as you look at the front stretch paddock I am in that crowd. Almost nothing has equalled what effect on my life attending 20 Indy 500's has done.
You've stated the head is off with butchered porting stripped out spark plug hole has stripped out exhaust stud and you need a new head so how did you slap this back on to practice a few donuts? And how did you get a degree wheel and dial indicator up in that buggy? Ive bloodied enough knuckles in the day to see that Buggy motor aint been touched, and btw Fix the Cracked frame.
"carzy overlap" cool since none of these numbers are published and you must have compared to stock and other cams how bout posting up those crazy overlap numbers? Curious, since none of these over the counter cams have adjustable timing gears to be able to degree the cam how are you decreeing your cam?
Ill go with a Blunt response. My showing NCY and Taida using the same piston mfg, was only a example of what is going on, lets stick to comparing apples to apples and you will find the same thing is going on in the slave labor camps in China, many mfg's using the same foundry and maybe there own tooling to cast a logo in it. Micro cracks are a different issue altogether than a proclaimed cheap porous inferior materials, Cool then someone show me either or..
As far as my response from the get go as far as I'm concerned mr carbide speaks with a forked tongue, from its earlier post I had to ask if one had ever even held the product in his hand and as I ventured to bet was correct, never. When this is continuously presented to me Im being called a idiot and I find that not only rude but highly insulting, I don't roll that way and I won't roll with others who roll that way..
Wish I had good news Bro the 110psi on your Two Stroke has with a Brand New Cylinder and Piston and ring assy is Way Low, should be 150 or more. Theres something wrong with the top end assy. Be Wonderfull for you to take and post up some pictures if the Cylinder Bore and Piston Assy, I can only do so much without seeing product.
As you have found out the Motor will run on 110 psi, but it is Way Way Way low especially for all new Cylinder and Piston assy. Should be more than 150psi. The Cold Starting and won't get up to Speed is from Too Low Compression, The Two Stroke is Not as forgiving as a Four Stroke is with Low Compression.
I'm just proving thought and discussion.. Ya, ok so a slight bump in compression and hp I don't see why that warrants a different spec. For instance, in general, any late model 250F MX'r comes out of the box with a oe comp ratio of around 12:3-1 and makes roughly 36rwhp. Now I install my max comp 14:1-1 piston, reshaped combustion chamber, Ti valves, Beryllium Copper seats blah blah and now she makes a solid 42rwhp and the Valve lash remained the same. there was no reason to change it. Kinda funny I checked my own placard on my Scoot and compared it to the paperback manual included and guess what? the paperback says 90 octane or higher with 10w/40 oil...My placard states 91 octane or higher and 15w/40... Oh, oh what do I do now? lol, I see one of your placards reads 10w/30 for oil.. As far as I can see all these specs appear to be copies of copies of copies of copies, I would venture to say so much is based on when the GY was originally born and the manuals from scoot mfg to scoot mfg have gotten blurred, since then we are working with updated tooling, materials and workmanship, and theses manuals appear to have never been updated. but really why? my Scoot brand new was $749. plus $120 freight, Ill go ahead and write my own manual. I could see why for instance Bintelli may have "added" some clearance for insurance purposes, safer on the warranty claims to have to general consumer set a slightly larger lash as they are not capable of consistently measuring and adjusting there lash to .002, add +.001 or so and the Scooter consumer can't jack that up to bad, but actually they do..
This is just pure internet parroting bunk.. Not one of them ever sent off a Cylinder head to be cross sectioned and X-Rayed to make such a claim. This is down to Alloys so for one to blame "cheap aluminum' is showing ones complete lack of knowledge of Castings and Finish machining Aluminum.. Also realize Few to None of the se manufactures actually owns and operates a Foundry for there castings, almost all of them use the same Foundry for there castings. It does not pay and is not good business to own and manufacturer every component of news engine. The specific manufacture may own the tooling to cast in there logo but thats it. Here is the real deal, I have product in hand, 61mm cast pistons from both Taida and NCY they use the same foundry and this same foundry can supply a raw casting to be machined or a finished product. So someone can't tell me that the Aluminum in the Taida piston is better than the NCY piston.. There is a ton of private labeling done out there and so much of it is manufactured from the same supplier.. 254-61mm-pistons-taida-cast-vs-ncy-cast-vs-taida-forged-high-comp
Ok this is especially important on Two Strokes. When I hear Cold Blooded and takes awhile to get up to speed you really need to take a Compression test and report back. Again most to many autocrats store have these tools to loan out at no charge.. Good luck..
You have worked with or have the Taida product vs Tong in Hand to make this determination? A actual problem with porosity is going to come from gas or a shrinkage issue and your only going to find that with x-ray or cut the thing in half looking for gas pockets. I am by no means any type of authority of metallurgy but I professionally have worked with similar materials in the field. The three most common Aluminum Alloys for Cylinder Heads for there properties of Castablilty, Machineability, Finishing and Weldability, these also must meet a criteria of Hardness and Strength at were high temperatures are required, they are 2420 and A2420, many cast pistons and air cooled cylinders and cylinder heads are cast from these alloys. The other alloy is 356.0 this is widely used for engine blocks and liquid called cylinder heads with a heat treat condition of around T5-T6.. Either or Any manufacture is using one of the three alloys because they are the only alloys that work, and None are more or less porous than the other.
I have had some success in a home made baked on VHT heat paint finish for the mild steel of your stock headpipe. I ran allot of two strokes in the day and learned this method works pretty darn well. First you must get the metal down to the White, all rust removed then get the Bernzomatic Propane torch and the highest heat VHT paint of your choice. Gently and Mildly heat the headpipe up with the torch so as the paint is just under evaporating when you spray, this may take a little practice but not much, try to obtain a even temperature all the way around the pipe. you will be able to tell when its too hot. Once up to Temp now spray the VHT in very light coats while heating with the torch in-between coats, repeat process several times for a nice even coat. you will find this to be as durable as it gets at the home shop, we are simply trying to replicate running temperatures while applying the VHT. Use this method on Scoot head pipes, automotive etc.