Very nice riding in a exotic part of the world . ya may wanna check the brake light adjustment on the dudes scoot with the Blue shirt on, that brake light is on like all the time. or he may be riding the brakes I dunno In fact must be the rear brake, left hand lever cuz his hand goes off the right grip and the brake light is still on.. Thanks for posting this..
I just really wanna know my stock cam numbers to compare to a A-11 and A-9 in My hands to know were to go from there. With a Longer duration cam compared to what we have offered could make power up thru 9,000 rpm and run reliably with the proper fuel at 12:5-1 or more. But then we don't have any worthy Valve Springs Period. Ive been puttinf off contacting PSI to try to match something up.
Im of sure no guru on the subject, know a few things, have some experience with some things. Im not a fan of higher compression for the sake of higher compression, when we add duration to the cam and figure the valve overlap we are bleeding off compression so thats why we raise it to work with the longer duration cam profiles, , if you max squish that stock cam motor you have a hell of a time trying to get it to not detonate with c-12 gas and advancing the timing a ton. I don't think its the hot setup.. The cam in my 385 ci small block has 288 degrees of intake and 294 degrees of exhaust duration and figures to be 71 degrees of overlap. lets say she idles CHOPPY and ROUGH!!!! with 1.75" diameter full 32inch length with 3x8' collector headers sounds very Healthy! Recommended minimum compression ratio for this Cam is 9:5-1 and mine is 10:5, with a Iron Block and Aluminum heads with some other improved cooling I Can run 93 octane with 36degrees of timing but I run a 50/50 of a Cam 2 for insurance and race with straight Cam2.. One of the reasons I purchased the Taida Ceramic composite bore cylinder is it better dissipates heat so I can run more compression with the same octane fuel, yup ya gotta bore the cases but I think its worth it if your going to to go for a Higher Compression GY.
Couple notes on the Flat slide, if considering you may want to work your way up from a Round Slide first as you may find is easier to jet having no experience, many jump directly to the biggest badest and have with little to no experience and have a hell of a time getting a Flat Slide jetted correctly, everything I rode as a kid and growing up had Round Slides on them two or four stroke and we rode mostly two stroke back in the day. if ya messed up the wrong way on the two stroke ya stuck a piston so we learned how to jet or pay the piper. So the Flat Slide thats on my KX was a easy transition for me. Yes the Flat slide is the snits but how much more on a GY with your combination over a easier to tune Round Slide? probably not that much to nada for the jackin with it..
The Smallest Combustion chamber with 28/23mm valves is the 58.5mm.. I could not find any oversize valve std bore heads. Just realize if you bolt on a 58.5mm combustion diameter head you will lower your compression, how much? we don't/ I don't know what the stock combustion chamber volume is in cc's and there probably all over the board any how. the only way to tell is to cc volume each and try to make up the difference if ya can by a thinner head gasket and or a thinner base gasket. and make sure whatever head gasket you use is the actual bore diameter of std or 57.4mm.. Theres also no reason you can't drop in any one of those cams in your stock motor. you already have a 26mm carb and a good exh,adding a cam would make a good combination, just have to jet the carb accordingly, and Boom yer down the road.
Not sure if you have had that carb running on your Scoot in the past but I think she is over carbureted at 30mm for the combination you have, thats a tune down not a tune up. I think of over carb'd as flushing a toilet into a straw.. Its your Scoot but I wouldn't waste my time trying to get it to work, I would go back to the OE 24mm carb back on and jet it properly. Im sure this will preform better.. Good Luck..
No I won't being doing that at all. The little forks dive so hard when I grab a handful of front brake as it is then I have the chassis flex after that, so I don't think a oversized front disc will make the scoot stop any faster only compound the forks diving into the pavement. I mentioned before I swapped out the oe fork water to some 15w fork oil to slow them down and it did help. On a older bike I tried any really liked the fork springs from Progressive suspension. wish I could match some up for the GY. So to me the whole oversized front brake mod is mostly poser like my rear oversized disc thats bigger than the one on my CBR..