Actually I remember reading one of your threads on using the machinist blue, after I went to the machine shop to have then recut the seats. I tested the Taida heads with a sharpie. Thanks for the reminder on the lapping.
Thats good with the torque check and timing, but I 100% recommend flipping the chain guide to the proper side, you may not have any issues now, but that guide has a proper wearing surface to interface with the chain. Last thing you want is fine metal shavings running through your oil pump and engine. Cause I can guarantee it will happen with the metal to metal contact that is there, the oil can only protect so much. Those shavings can ruin a lot including your new BBK. Please take the time and flip it as it is down already. I really want to see a video of you riding for your Bday.
OK Kachi I found one issue you have to fix, and will require the removal of the head. You installed the chain guide upside down, I had to replay it a few times to be sure it was that. Right now you have metal to metal contact (the chain and the metal reinforcement for the guide). Watch from the 7:35 mark on the video, its installed upside down.
Kachi, did you do a leak down on that Glixal head before you installed it to ensure the valves are seated correctly? When I got my first Glixal head the valves leaked, so I had to spend about an hour lapping them. I ended up at the machine shop to recut the seat cause it was just way off and then lapped them back in. I'm not saying this is the problem but it might be a candidate. this is due to how these heads are assembled, we are not sure of the quality control, the seat is cut in one process and the valve might just be dropped in. If there is anything off at all this can cause a compression leak. This also applies to the automotive aftermarket, I've seen videos of AFR and DART heads that leak. I'm sure Piston will have more info on this
Dan is on point here Kachi, compression is the only thing left. At least for it to fire over. Did you get a chance to check the cylinder head stud nuts for proper torque? I've seen this happen many times especially where I am, people that don't have torque wrenches and no building experience either over tighten or barely snug the head nuts. f not torqued properly, vibration can cause those nuts to back out over time. I'm looking over your build video to see if I see anything that may give us a clue.
To be honest with you all I didn't run an air filter for the past year and something since I made the straight tube from the butane can. I'll have to shorten the runner a bit and see how she responds. Side note, last night the back wheel locked up when I pulled in the street. The 34mm nut on the clutch backed out, never seen it happened before, been running great for the past two and more years. No worries, pulled it down and tightened her up just right. I don't have a 34 socket so I put her to the vice, gave her a nice strong twist, it bottomed out and I heard the click when the torque was just right. Ran perfect all the way up to work, I'll keep you guys updated on how she goes. Also did a little clutch mod as I was in there, I always wanted to see how much effect lightening the clutch blocks will affect stall rpm. Of course this is all dependent on where you remove weight and how much you remove. So I started with just about a 1/4" hole mid span of the weights. Result: no noticeable increase in stall rpm. And yes I will be removing more material, this time ill shave some weight from the tips, that should have greater effect. I do not have any problem having a higher rpm stall.
Do you happen to have a timing light? If you do you can check if the ignition is firing at the right time. If you have a spare CDI, try swapping it just to rule it out. Also try swapping the wires on the coil, its supposed to be one way but sometimes works another. Its happened to me before. Check for any breaks in the red and black wire from the stator to the CDI, and the blue wire from the pickup to the CDI. Sometimes they get pinched and can ground out causing an intermittent spark condition. I know how frustrating it can be, I just spent two hours pulling the clutch apart cause the 34mm nut backed out. Never happened before but last night it locked the rear tire up as I pulled in the street. I modified the clutch a little as I was in there, lol its in my nature. I ride with a full tool kit in case of any breakdowns, I make sure to have my homemade tool to remove the variator and clutch if I need to. Haven't had to use it for many months now, but I help a lot of riders on the road that are stranded.
Once there is free flow into and out of the crankcase, baffled or not (the baffle is not a one way valve), there will be air pumping in and out of the engine. When the piston comes down from TDC (top dead center) it will displace the air on the way down to BDC (bottom dead center) into the crankcase where the pressure becomes higher than atmosphere. As there is a vent on the rocker cover, the higher pressure exits the vent. Like wise when the piston heads back up the bore, a vacuum is created in the crankcase, and you guessed it, because of the open vent, air is drawn back into the crankcase. At idle it should be just air, at higher rpms when things get a bit more turbulent, some oil may exit the vent (As seen in Piston's photos). This is not a guess but simple physics, getting to know your engine and the way it works it a beautiful thing. PLEASE NOTE: this explanation does not take into consideration blow by.
Have you tried holding the throttle wide open and turn her over? If she's flooded that might get her to fire. Be careful for the jerk forward if she fires up. How much is the mixture screw turned out? It should still fire even if this is off
Fuel, spark and compression, are you hitting the starter fluid straight into the carb? make sure you tighten the carb down with no air leaks. Valve lash can certainly be the culprit if too tight, I've seen it get tight and won't have the right compression. Bright blue spark (strong)? you can verify the clearance of the pick up to the flywheel magnet.