Hey there Kachi's Kid, welcome to the forum, I have a 125cc A block, and first used a Glixal big bore kit without having to machine to take me up to 155cc, but the kit was designed to be installed without boring the case. I had great success with the kit, I ran it for months till one day the case bolts loosened from vibration and lost all the oil. It wasn't any fault of the Glixal kit. I had to replace the cylinder and piston though, everything got destroyed. I replaced with a drop in Taida 155cc, and it is great. I also got a matching performance head to go with the cylinder with larger valves and runners, it is well worth the money. I've been running this combo for a few months now and pound on the engine daily. I run at WOT for around 15 to 20 mins to and from work, between 90-100km/hr. and the cylinder and head take it really well. I may move up to a 61mm kit in the future, but considering I have the smaller A block, I will have a thinner skirt than what you have with your B block, reliability may become an issue in my case considering the riding conditions.
Hey Piston, I was thinking about talking to Tim Isky to do a custom cam for a gy6 engine, maybe one of their black mamba cams or daddy mamba grinds, should be a lot of fun. whats your take on it. at least we will know what we are putting in and also know its done right
I took off the ground and sanded it, it had some glazed crud on it. I put it back on started up for about a minute and refuses to start. I changed the CDI this morning so I doubt two CDI's just happen to go bad at the same time. Maybe the coil, I'll have to check the resistance once I'm home
Good point, I will take the ground off and wire brush it to ensure a good connection, will do that at lunch, I'll have to get a new CDI to eliminate the CDI question entirely.
what do you think about the coil and the polarity? I found it so strange that it would run basically the same with the wires switched.
hey guys I need your help, every day the scoot will start and run perfectly to work. When I'm trying to leave, it will start and by the time I stop at the first traffic light its out, happened two days in a row. First time it restarted after a few mins of kick starting and in last nights case I took over half an hour to get it up and running. It would start for a few seconds and die. I checked for spark and saw it when grounded to the case. I actually tried switching the wires on the coil and it fired right up and I was able to ride home (I'm not even sure why that worked, but I know it can work on either polarity but one works better than the other). Carb is clean, I even pulled it down last night and blew out the circuits. I have 40 pilot and 108 main, the pilot seems a bit too small, I have the mixture screw 1/2 turn out, but don't have a larger pilot yet. Fuel check. Engine has good compression, Valve lash set good so no valves open on compression. Compression check. No air restrictions, I need to get a UNI filter. Air Check Spark is what I think the problem is. This morning started fine and refused to start back after a run to my dad's. I keep a spare CDI (an old one) it started up good. New plug. New Coil. Used stator and pickup. I'm hoping it may be just a bad CDI. any thoughts? I have around 50 Volts out of the stator winding to the CDI. Not to sure of the voltage of the coil pick up. Not sure if I may have to recheck the gap of the pickup to the magnet. I'm open to suggestions. I'm reaching my limits with shut downs. I'm at 3-4 a week due to spark issues.
this looks like a nice build Paton, happy you are progressing well. be sure to take lots of pictures and share. I am in line for a new build also, my engine is coming to its end. The Taida parts I have put on are practically new and are the only reason it lives on. But like you I dont have the cash to hit the Taida build. I am thinking of buying a used 250 or 300cc engine and doing a heart transplant. That way as cyborg said it should have better reliability and performance. but that is yet to happen. What speeds are you attempting to reach with you scooter and build.
I am honestly not too sure of the rpm, I blew up the digital tach I got from Dan, I have an extra one I have to install. The last time I hit that speed before using these Nordlock washers, the cases separated from the vibration and I toasted the motor. (I should have pics of when that happened) I'll be sure to listen up for pinging.
With the chain in place I have about 95km/h in reverse, lmao, I think steering it may be a problem though, lol. What I like most about the mod is that starting is as easy before. It does advance the entire timing curve, but because of the stock CDI has an actual curve, starts with low timing then advances with rpm it is not noticeable compared to stock. The lower end performance CDI's don't have a curve at all and just a flat line, making starting hell, especially for me because I kick start only. My guess for the more expensive, brand name performance CDI's have a curve with a higher final advance, or more aggressive timing curve. This weekend I will modify the flywheel key and throw some more timing at her and see what she does.
Hey guys, started this year with a failed stator, got a replacement and am back up and running. While the side cover was off I decided to do a free mod based on a video done by 90GTVert from youtube basically you elongate the holes for the pick up coil to advance the timing . I believe the advance is only about 2-3 degrees, I will verify this later with a degree wheel and timing light. I used a rat tail file. I still plan to file the flywheel key to add more timing advance, I can get about 8 degrees. the modification has really brought out the grunt the A10 cam has to offer across the band. top speed now is 110km/h. I wish I had some gears so I can really push this little thing more, but for now I'm stuck
Question for you guys, are the gears for the 50cc engines and the 125/150 engines the same? I ask because I saw a youtube video for 49ccscoot and realized his transmisson case was similar to mine and comes off on the wheel side instead of the cvt side. Dan can you confirm this if possible please. For anyone who has a 50cc with gears out can you please take measurements of the gears in the transmission, I will be able to compare gear spacing and know if I can use those for my build. Thanks in advance to everyone
Last week I pulled up in work and left a pool of gear oil, I thought it was the seal leaking, turned out to be a crack in the case cover. Changed it out for another, I also had to transfer one of the bearings across from the cracked case, nothing a propane torch couldnt handle. back up and running. Its times like these I realize how much I like to wrench cause i know a lot of people would throw this thing in the trash where it belongs lol.
So good joke for you all, at least we can have a laugh, in my rush to get a solution, I overlooked the simplest of things. Drive from an input gear will cause the opposite rotation of the output gear. LMAO I made a high speed reverse, live and learn I say. I was thinking about doing a manual clutch for the bike and I can control the gearing via sprockets. I am thinking of retrofitting the 3D Motorsports Manual clutch for our application. the design is pretty simple and I should be able to modify a few parts to get it to fit out needs. For now it's just a thought but I have to get one anyway for an upcoming project.
I suggest checking the voltage with a meter at the back of the plug just to be sure the voltages seem acceptable, as the carbide said, we wouldn't want high voltage running through the circuits. cheap insurance, will just cost you your time, that is once you have a meter. Once I'm home tonight I'll try to check it for ya and let you know