Thanks Michael! I noticed also that my iPhone camera isn’t picking-up that phasing effect on the video from the headlights like it was before, the light just looks steady now. So that shows that the phasing effect is an indicator of AC power on a DC lighting system, which was my guess, but it’s nice to see it confirmed. For reference, the Converters were from superbrightleds.com as linked earlier in this thread, the 3cmx7cm breadboards were from Amazon, the electronic components (16V 15000 uF aluminum electrolytic capacitors, 6A 50V rectifying diodes) were from DigiKey. I also used some 20-gauge automotive wire I got from Amazon. Everything was soldered before hand, wrapped in electrical tape, then connected to the bike circuits with bullet connectors which I also got from Amazon. I was careful to use male and female connectors appropriately so that if I ever wanted to, I could remove the entire setup and easily connect everything back to how it was from the factory. This has been a long, but interesting project and I’ve learned a lot from the experience. 😎✌️
As usual, the video wouldn't upload so I have uploaded it to YouTube, here: In the video, I also show the flashing red LED I installed a while back in the spare red dashboard indicator slot - it's a fake alarm - may as well use that slot for something! Btw, the cooling fans for the LEDs seem to be louder now and sound really cool right after you turn off the engine, lol.
Yep! They have to be in order to be able to fill-in the gaps in power for these 35W LEDs in between waves. And success! I have installed the DC converters and filter circuits I built and they work great! In fact, I think they are even a little brighter. Also, the blue LED I bought a while back for the High-Beam dashboard indicator light works ok now! I am soooo relieved. By the way, the brown wire in my schematic is actually yellow. I'll post an updated schematic when I get the chance. Took me about 7 hours total to build and install the DC conversion system I designed. Not too bad. Now I can relax. Only one funny quirk is the blue led flickers in proportion to the revs when high-beam is off, but I kinda like it, it's like a rev indicator lol. Anyway, here's some pics taken from different angles so you can see how i crammed everything in there lol. The filter circuits were taped over with electrical tape to keep out any stray rain drops and insulate them electrically. Anyway, it all works great!
Well I got the filter circuits built, and connected to the converters. Next step is to wire them into the bike. I am also hoping that once I do this and it's on DC, that blue LED I bought a while back will work ok.
Ok so scratch that - it just occurred to me that I no longer need 4 converters - I just need 2! Since we are now inserting the DC-conversion components into the brown wire before the High-Beam Switch, the same 2 converters will now be powering high or low beam, since all the switch does is send the same power to either the low beam or the high beam. I need a total power-handling of 70W and these are 36W each. We still need 2 filter circuits, but at least this gets rid of 2 of the converters from the previous version and so makes it all a lot simpler.
Ok, so after a lot of thinking, I came up with this. Basically, I am doing the conversion before the high-beam switch so that the switch can still properly do its job and actually switch between the two supplies, it will just do so after the conversion and so will be a DC switch instead of an AC switch, if you see what I mean. I've also used capacitors to filter the power so that I don't get the typical flickering that happens when converting AC to DC. Then there's a diode to stop the cap discharging backwards, and also a diode to stop each cap from discharging into the other supply line since both share a ground wire. I thought about only using 2 converters, but then I realized I have to use all 4 because of their power-handling. They can each handle 36W. However each bulb uses 20W for the low-beam channel, or 35W on the high-beam channel. Hence we need one converter per bulb per channel due to the power-handling limitations of the converters. I don't really know how else to do it. This isn't ideal and I'd have to buy the capacitors and diodes so I can't actually make it yet. It also looks like a pain to make. I might have to make the capacitor/diode part on 2 little breadboards. This is definitely turning out to be more than I bargained for. I just hate to think of those DC LEDs running on AC - I am concerned it may be damaging the stator or something else. Since we know LEDs only conduct in one direction, we can surmise that they are only using half the wave of the AC cycle, and the other half of the wave is blocked - that can't be good for the stator! If anyone has a better idea or any input on how to do this, I'd really appreciate some feedback. Thanks!
Ok well I tried to get this to work as in the diagram below, but the problem is, EVERYTHING lights whether the high-beam switch is on or not, lol smh. And now that I look at my circuit, I can see why - it's because each pair of converters shares a green AC wire (supposed to be the ground). However because this is AC, on one half of the cycle, that green wire is effectively POSITIVE and so on that cycle both the high- and low-beam lights are triggered together, causing the high beam to basically be on all the time. There's also a noticeable and very real flicker the entire time since the high beam is on for only half of each cycle lol. So given what I know now, it's a wonder my LED lights work properly at all! The electronics boxes that each comes with must be pretty awesome, because somehow even though they are also sharing that green wire, the high- and low-beams work correctly without the converters: On Low Beam, half the LED elements on each bulb are on, and on High Beam, both sets of LED elements are on. So now I am trying to figure out how I can possibly use these 4 converters I paid $60 for including shipping, to power my LED headlights and have the high- and low-beams working properly. If anyone knows how to do this, please let me know! I also measured the voltage on my blue high-beam dashboard indicator light. It's at 10.8 V AC, and drops to 10.4 V AC when the engine revs. So my hunch about why that cuts out when the engine revs was correct - the voltage drops and there's not enough forward voltage to activate the 12 V AC LED I'd bought. So I am thinking maybe I can find a 10V AC T10 blue or white LED and that would be fine, in theory.
Well i knew what I was getting myself into when I bought it lol. It’s hard to find info and of course they are gonna change stuff and not tell anyone. I wish they’d publish better manuals on their website, considering we have to maintain them ourselves - it’s not like there’s a taotao dealership I can go to lol. But for me, that’s half the fun. I’ve learned so much since I got this bike, from YouTube and skilled mechanics like Dan. Some of it seems so simple now, but I guess that’s good because it means I’m learning!
Just had a thought after getting some sleep (lol) - shouldn't my R/R be outputting just over 12 V DC instead of 15 V DC? Is this normal? Do I need to get a new R/R? If so, where's the best place to get one from? (I don't wanna get the same brand or whatever if this one is cheap and crappy, lol). Thanks guys.