Replacing the adjusters is easy. Just loosen and remove the bottom bolt that holds the adjuster, remove the adjuster and install the new one. I did not have any problems with removing the bolts on mine, but yours may be different. In thinking of a replacement, if you do not have or have access to the equipment to make a new (and better) adjuster, you might take your old one to a motorcycle shop and see if you can find a replacement that will work. Since the ones that I made used a larger bolt, I had to drill out the mount on the swing axle, but it really was a simple job to swap them out. One thing to keep in mind. If you look carefully, you will see that the bolt is offset or angled away from the bolt on the bearing housing. Again, if you are trying to find a replacement, be sure to take the old one and compare it to whatever you are looking at. John
Keyif, I use a big rock to chock (hold in place) the wheels when using the winch. I have an idea for adding a separate manual disc brake to the existing rear brake to give added holding power to the parking brake. However, with everything else, I am not sure I will have time to do that this year before mid-May. I haven't checked the wheel bearings yet and I am sure I need to. Thanks for the reminder, one more thing added to my to-do list. John
Well, it has been a while but I have been busy trying to get ready for our summer trip to the mountains. As a quick review, last summer the issues that I had were lack of power on some of the steep grades, brakes, exhaust, seats and the harsh ride. To this end, I have been able to check off some of the issues and other are still in the works. However, due to the problems that I had finding the correct brake pads for the rear brake, I decided to go ahead and post what I have done so far that perhaps it will save someone else the headache of finding the correct pads. So I will start off with the brakes. I have had great difficulty in finding the correct pads for this UTV. The problem is with the smaller inner pad. Most of the pads that are out there are 48mm across the widest point (tabs) and mine is 55mm and no one seems to have them. I even went to two different Cazador dealers and both said they had them until I got there and they could not match my pad. So once again, I got on the internet but this time my search came up with a site Parts Unlimited http://www.parts-unlimited.com/products/?productId=432531&partNumber=17211558 and they had a drawing with the dimensions of their pads and after verifying against mine, I discovered that among the various vehicles this fits, the most recent one is a Kawasaki KEF300B Lakota Sport. However, they only sell to dealers but I now knew what to look for. So with a quick search I bought a set and they fit perfectly, finally, I found the correct item. Keyif, make a note of this. The next item was rear sprocket. Last year I tried but was unsuccessful in locating a 37 tooth rear sprocket (or anything even close to it) that would fit on my axle hub. So I have made a two piece adapter that will take a JTR473.37 sprocket to my existing 3-bolt hub. I chose this sprocket for several reasons. First off, my UTV utilizes a 520 chain and I wanted to stay with that size. Next, I needed a sprocket that would allow me to fabricate some type of adapter to go between my hub and the new sprocket. Finally, I wanted a sprocket that would be a “family” of sprockets so that if this size does not work out, there are others sizes but will still have the same hub and bolt size / pattern. This one seemed to do the best job of fulfilling all of the requirements. So basically, I made two “spacers” if you will out of .250” steel plate (same width as the sprocket). The first one sits onto the axle hub and the OD is the size of the ID of the new sprocket. This centers the sprocket on the axle and keeps it in the same plane as the output shaft’s sprocket. The second one still fits onto the hub, but is larger in diameter and bolts the sprocket to the hub. Actually, both adapters are bolted onto the hub, but the first one just basically keeps the sprocket centered while the second one transfers the rotational force from the chain to the axle. While I had the axle out for the adapters, I noticed that the adjusters had some of the threads stripped (both of them). These adjusters were made out of some very soft steel and I had intended to make some new ones a while back. This time, I decided that now was the time to do this. These new ones are made from 1/8” plate and I am using 3/i8” bolts for the threaded rods. I think that these will hold up. I am currently working on the suspension and will update this thread when I get through. John
Dan, I agree with your comment about helping each other out. I knew that I would need help with the GY6 engine when I decided to go this route. The combination of your videos and reading post on this board told me that this was a site that respected others and would be willing to help out without the bashing and flaming that goes on some of the other boards; I'm too old to put up with that type of thing. Keyif, I used to have the same issue with a fairly loud "crunch" when I shifted gear and the clutch engaged. Since I have done the shifter cable repair, I have not noticed that any more. Perhaps the smaller diameter cable is stretching too much and not allowing the gears to fully engage. The buggy has been running fine since the shifter cable repair. Yesterday, I cut down about a 15-20 foot dead tree, cut it up into large pieces and in two trips, hauled it back to our site to cut up for firewood. We are getting close to the end of our stay in the mountains and will back home the second half of September. Over the winter, my plans are to lower the final drive ratio, finish the 1" exhaust that I got started earlier, but did not have time to complete before leaving, work on the suspension - it only has about 1/2" travel when I push down on it (I weigh 200 lbs) and work on the CVT/clutch; it currently engages at too high of RPM. This sometimes causes a rather harsh start, especially first thing in the morning. John PS Sorry about the run-on sentence.
Keyif "My reverse often jumps teeth on the drive chain and makes horrendous noise" If your chain is skipping teeth, then your chain is still too loose. You want a little bit of slack, but not to the point of jumping teeth. Check your tension, if it only moves no more than 1/2" (13mm) then you might be skipping a gear tooth in the transmission. We had this problem earlier when the transmission was not fully engaged in gear. I believe that this new cable will help with that issue as stated earlier that the shifting is much more positive. John
It was black like it had a build up of carbon on it. I believe the factory design was OK, but the new cable has a much more positive feel to it, not as "mushy" or spongy like before. I may do the same mod to the reverse cable when I get home. I will update this thread over the weekend with a picture of the old cable. We are leaving shortly for a few days, but I would really like some feedback as to what others think happened. I have shown it to a few people here and no one has seen anything quite like it before. Later. John OK, I promised a pic of the old cable. Here it is and while I had already cleaned a lot of the black soot/carbon/whatever, you can still see some of it on the shorter end. I had to cut off the broken end of the longer section to clean out the liner before I could install the new and larger cable. John
Well, here is the latest in my ongoing saga. My wife had to come back to our cabin in reverse. Turns out the forward shift cable broke and all she could do was back up. I did not want to get a replacement from Cazador for two reasons. First, this cable only lasted about a year and a half and that does not speak well to the quality of the cable. The second is every time I have contacted Cazador parts, no one seems to know what parts fit what. They call back to service but they just say bring in your part and we will verify fit. Well, the nearest Cazador parts dealer is about 500 miles away, so that is not really an option. Since the existing cable housing was fine, just the cable inside it was bad, I decided to see if I could make my own replacement. I started by measuring the distance between the end of the cable and the end of the housing on both ends so that I would know how far to attach the ends on the new cable (I could not trust measuring the old one as I was unsure of how long it would be due to the way the cable stretched before breaking). Next, I took the old cable, cable housing, and a set of calipers to measure with and went shopping. I found that I could inset a 3/32” cable into the housing giving me a larger diameter cable over the original one. I then found that a 3/16” bolt would work just fine for the cable end. So I cut off the threaded and hex head ends of the bolt and drilled a small hole into one end for the cable to go through. I welded the cable onto the bolt and using a hand file, filed the excess weld down to a shape that would fit but still be strong enough to hold the cable. Satisfied that this would work, I inserted the cable into the housing and repeated the process on the other end. Here are some pictures of what I ended up with. If I could have found a better quality cable that would fit, I would have gone that route, but I believe that this will work as well or better than the factory unit. John
By the way, I have not begun to post all of the pictures of my project. If you have any additional questions about anything, don't hesitate to ask. I have probably worked on that system already. About the only thing I have not gotten into (yet) is the front end suspension and removing the rear axle (that will happen this fall). You mentioned you believe you might have a fuel starvation problem. One way to check that is to run it wide open until it starts to die. When this happens, turn the key switch off and pull over and check the fuel filter. If there is fuel in the filter, then the pump is keeping up with the engine demand and you need to look elsewhere. If it is fuel starvation, then you need to look into an upgraded fuel pump. John PS I like your ride. Nice Wheels. I hope to upgrade mine in the future.
Yes, I also found both of the castle nuts (the nuts that hold the rear hubs onto the axle) loose on mine as well. The sprocket hub that the chain sprocket bolts onto to drive the axle was loose as well. In looking at both of these hubs I have come to the conclusion that the material that Cazador used for these parts are not hardened steel but softer steel. I suspect the idea is that this allows for less critical tolerances and as you drive, the hubs conform to the splines on the axle as long as you keep the nuts tight. This is why the sales and owner’s manual both state to be sure to take it back to your dealer after a week to a month to have them tighten up all loose bolts and nuts. I just used my air impact wrench to tighten up the castle nuts and have been keeping an eye on them. I am also replacing a lot of the Phillips head 6mm machine screws with 6mm hex head bolts with lock washers. By using a hex head bolt, I am able to get it much tighter than I could with a Phillips screwdriver. To tighten the chain, it is basically like the rear wheel of a motorcycle. Loosen the bolts that hold the axle bearings, loosen the rear most nut on the bolt that also connected to the wheel bearing assembly. Then, tighten the other nut so that this nut pushes against the metal bracket and in turn, pushes the axle assembly forward, I have drawn a red circle around the nut that does this task. Do each side the same number of times so that you keep the axle parallel to the front axle. I went about 3 turns of the wrench on each side checking the slack as I went. I do not know how well I explained this, but you should be able to do a search on YouTube for adjusting a motorcycle chain, the procedure is the same. If you are still having problems, write back and I will see if I can make a short video or take step—by-step pictures. I have included a picture of the assembly for reference. John
Yeah, I know, but I was just afraid that I would not be able to get it back off in the future, Oh Well ... The altitude up here is 8,300' and the current temp at almost noon is 61 degrees F. We are currently in what the locals refer to as "The Monsoons". This is the time of year when they really need all the rain they can get as they do not receive that much the rest of the year unless they have a heavy snow over the winter. John
We have been up at our mountain cabin for about a month and a half and it has been interesting. Shortly after we got here, the water pump on our Suburban went out. Fortunately, it waited until after we got here and not while we were in the desert of West Texas and New Mexico. Next, we got our cell phone plan upgraded to unlimited data and my wife's phone died. Turns out that the authorized Apple reseller that we got her phone through sold us a iPhone that was originally for the Sprint network and we are on Verizon. Long story short, I bought her a new iPhone (eBay) that was a Verizon phone to begin with and got her back up and working.
Somewhere between these two events, the UTV suddenly made a terrible noise when I tried to start it. I immediately shut it down, double checked everything and tried to start it again with the same noise. I towed it back to our place and pulled off the fan cooling shroud to check the fan and flywheel. They were good, but there was definitely something hitting preventing the crankshaft from turning. So with some help, I removed the swingarm and then the motor. I took it to my (small) workshop and pulled the flywheel off to continue trouble shooting (I had compression so I did not believe it was a rod or piston issue). Come to find out, the two bolts that hold the new 12 pole stator to the block had come loose and the stator was hitting the rivets inside of the flywheel. Yes, I know that I was supposed to use Loctite on the bolts when I replaced the stator, however, the bolts were very hard to break loose when I took the original one off. One of the bolts that holds the strap that holds the stator wires away from the flywheel still has not come off, I had to bend the strap enough to get the wires behind it. So for this reason, I made the decision not to use Loctite when putting everything back together. Fortunately, aside from a few wires on the stator being damaged, everything else was OK. So I contacted Dan and got another stator along with a few other things and got it put back together and running.
About a week later, it refused to start after stopping for a while. I checked for spark and it was good. Next I checked the fuel filter and it was fine (fuel pump was working). Again I had compression, so I suspected carb / fueling issue. This time, I found the issue fairly quickly. The two nuts that hold the intake manifold onto the head had come loose. Again, this was caused when I had to take it off to install the new cooling shroud and did not use Loctite to hold the nuts on tight.
So I am posting this in hopes that it will prevent someone else from making the same mistakes that I made.
On another update issue, I have found that the 6.8 ohm resistor on the enricher works great. I tried to use the 3.3 by itself but the voltage was higher than I wanted. And when I tried to use the two together in series, it stayed too rich too long. Perhaps if you were in a very cold climate, you might benefit from both together, but not for summer or driving where the temperature is above freezing. I will update the link I had posted in the electrical area.
The last thing concerns the altitude and 10% grades. I suspected that I would have to make some jetting and/or gearing changes, but really did not know what to expect in advance as our primary home is 300 feet above sea level and relatively flat. So I just waited until I got here to see how it preformed. It actually did better than I had expected, but with both, my wife and I in the kart and going up the steepest grades, it really struggles. I had planned on being able to get a different final drive chain sprocket to correct this issue but was surprised that I cannot find any alternate sprockets that fit this kart. Bottom line, I will have to wait until the fall when I get back home to make an adapter to fit a motorcycle sprocket that will adapt to my existing sprocket hub. I have the equipment at home to do this, but not up here. So for the time being, it is working OK, and with careful driving in some places, I can make do. I also want to change the RPM at which the clutch engages. It comes in too late and all at once. I want a gentler, more controlled engagement so again, something for me to do over the winter.
All in all, it is doing the job that I bought it to do and with a little more work, I believe it will work just fine. To be continued later in the year. John
Update. I have found that the 6.8 ohm resistor on the enricher works great. I tried to use the 3.3 by itself but the voltage was higher than I wanted. And when I tried to use the two together in series, it stayed too rich too long. Perhaps if you were in a very cold climate, you might benefit from both together, but not for summer or driving where the temperature is above freezing. I hope this helps someone. John
We have been up in the mountains for almost a week and I can report both good and not so good. The good is all of the work I have done works and works well. As I/we suspected, the altitude will require some more work. I found out that I do not have a plug socket here so I will need to get one in the near future so that I can read the plug, but I know that it is running too rich. The other thing is the gearing it too high (2.91 final chain drive ratio). The sprocket on the rear axle is a 32 tooth and I am thinking something around a 36 - 38 tooth sprocket would be about right, That would make the final ratio somewhere between 3.27 to 3.45. In looking around, it looks like most of the sprockets are a four bolt pattern mounting to the hub and my hub is a three bolt pattern. So in short, can anyone recommend a vendor that might be able to help me figure this out? I do not think Dan can be of help to me with this problem. Also, I will need new jets. Dan, do you sell a jet kit? And finally, the CVT is engaging at a higher RPM than I would like, but before I go into that, I want to get the rear drive corrected first. Thanks in advance for any input. PS We do not have very much in the way of Internet access right now so it might be a few days before I can respond. John
Thanks. As we know, you have been involved with this project as well, I appreciate all of your help, responses, and support. I will be building a retaining wall made up of railroad ties that weigh somewhere between 125 and 200 pounds, depending on actual size (they can vary) and quality. I will need some way to move them from the driveway to where the wall will be built. I plan to tie a snatch block (pulley) to this big oak and using winch, pull the tie from the driveway to the tree via the pulley. I will include a picture to better explain how I intend to do this. Thanks again everyone who added comments and support. John