I've been looking for awhile and I finally turned up this. It's the manual to a Baja Reaction 150 with the newer VIN number. The newer VIN has a Howhit and the same gearbox as yours according to other buggy forums. http://bajamotorsports.com/system/documents/123_PARTS_CATALOG_-_BR150_Howhit_Baja_Reaction_150cc_Go_Kart_VIN_PREFIX_L6K_.pdf
I found this video off of an Amazon review. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iC1Dc8Mwusk I think the output of the CDI would fry the tach being it's around 400V. I was planning to use the trigger coil output (< 5V) when I buy one.
So it idles fine when it's warming up (auto-choke on) but it dies when the auto-choke turns off? That's not the main jet's fault. You need to adjust your A/F screw richer. The A/F screw affects the mixture at idle to 1/4 throttle. The position of the e-clip on the jet needle affects 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. The main jet only affects 3/4 to full throttle. And as for the fake carb, maybe you can cannibalize some parts off of it (jets, auto-choke, float, etc.), then chuck that thing at your annoying neighbors. Might as well get some use out of it.
Tonight I took the CVT apart again so I could change back to my 14g sliders. The 12g/14g setup didn't "shift" like other forums promised, it just ate up my top end power like a set of 13g but that's a whole other discussion. While I was down taking off the exhaust, I thought I might show off my studs to @pistonguy. I like them a bit better than stock because they're beefy as all hell:
While I was taking that last picture, a wire decided to fall on my safety glasses:
Ahhhhh...So THAT'S why my speedo stopped working! And now some pictures of my gearbox:
Heck, why not add the exploded view from the manual:
Yup, I stripped the spark plug hole and exhaust studs. I own that one... I used an insert (not the heli-coil type) and tapped the inside of it to the spark plug head. I also used 5/16-18 studs for the exhaust. It ain't pretty, but it works. I know I could use a new head. But there's other things before that, like the cracked frame. And heck, it's not like I can keep this thing spotless for 2 years straight like a scoot driven on a road. It's a buggy! I can degree the cam. I haven't done this one yet, but I did on my other gokart that has a GX200. I have indicators and printed-out degree wheels. I will do this in my Tong Jian vs Scoot thread when I get the chance.
What was that PCV delete that you were talking about? Did you eliminate the check valve and make it a straight-through breather, or did you cap off the barb? Even with good rings if there's no breather, the crankcase will pressurize enough to blow seals.
Sorry I was just spit-balling some ideas. I wasn't really taking a scientific approach at my statements. I'll think a little more before I post next time... I see the question you were asking, @pistonguy. Sure the compression ratios are different, but that would affect head volume/shape and deck height and not valve lash (to a certain degree). Manufacturer politics has much to do with it too. Heck, we all know the engine will run just fine with a plug gap of 0.020" or 0.030" but one manufacturer might prefer 0.026"-0.028" and another 0.022"-0.026". That would also have to do with compression ratio, probably more so than valve lash but you get the point. And I run 20W-50 in the fall on my GY6.
Just took a pic of the worst spot on the driven. I have no idea how these nicks happened. I measured the depth of the gouge in the picture to be 0.003" deep. All the others are much smaller (less than 0.001"). Could this be the issue?