The jeep world calls that a "lunchbox locker" but it's really a cheap way to get a Detroit locker typology. If I would go with the Detroit style, I'd get the true Detroit instead of the lunchbox. Stock my Jeep still has the Dana 30 in front and the 35 in the rear. I'm thinking of getting G2 Dana 44's for the front and rear and they have some options for lockers or LSDs installed.
I've been wanting to make a snow/mild offroad machine out of my XJ for awhile. I was kinda put off by reviews saying Detroit lockers were terrible in the snow because of the hard locking/unlocking of the faster wheel. I've been considering an elocker or a limited slip for just the rear. I would keep the front open. What would you recommend Piston?
I've always loved these Cherokees. Too bad they went off the deep end with their new Subaru that has Jeep emblems. This particular one has 178k and still holds that sweet 4.0 tune. My only complaint is the 13 MPG. My next car (or should I say dream car for awhile) would ideally be a 2-door, hardtop JK Wrangler with a 3.6L and any transmission with less than 8 speeds.
American LandMaster used to be the name of their UTV series but now they are banking on it by phasing-out their gokarts. The new axle design for the 6150/7150/7151 is the design that the LM200 UTV used. I've contacted them a couple years ago about the hubs and that's why I've been limping along with what I got. And even if I do find some hubs a guy had left in his barn for some reason, my hubs are welded to the axle. I would need a new axle anyway.
So now I go to take a look at the CVT. Here the variator nut f*cked off and the variator flew apart. Only took a (few) chunks of aluminum with it:
So I go to take the ramp plate off and the variator boss is spun onto the crank:
So picture this, I have a slide hammer on the ramp plate and it's not budging. I give up on the slide hammer before I bend the ramp plate and as I take the puller off, my knuckles just barely nudge the rear hub. Then this happened:
Now that hurts because if I can't get it welded, that ear is worth $300. The hubs are welded to the axle because they kept on stripping out and they're not cheap or even available anymore because ASW is a dick. This would mean a new (and improved by ASW) axle and two hubs. And get this one. I was in my green Cherokee, heading to my grandmother's to pick up her dog and where my road comes to a tee, a guy stood in the grass with a scooter. Pulled up and asked if he needed anything. "Ooooh I was just coming over the hill and the belt popped." The scoot was a blue BPS150 or BCS150 or something like that. It was a 10" wheel so I asked if he wanted me to grab him one of my belts. "Nah, my brother's coming with the van...Sucks I only put 50 miles on this thing! Brand new!" It's just a terrible day for GY6's here in PA.
It's a cold day in hell when I get to tell Pistonguy he was wrong. That crack goes right down the center of the entire part.
I just got my new intake today, slapped it on, rode for about 30min, then it made a deathly wine/buzz/scream noise. It was almost instantaneous instinct to jam the kill and slam it into neutral. Coasted to the top of my driveway and tried to start it. It started but still made the noise. I'm pretty sure I stripped my variator drive face.
It needs a complete circuit. The spark induces a voltage in the sensing wire that's wrapped around the ignition wire. In order for the tach to see that voltage, it needs something to compare it to, like the frame ground. If you don't do this, the tach will "float," electrically speaking. This would mean that when the spark occurs and the sensing wire sees, say 10V, the entire tach will raise to 10V so in essence nothing changes that the tach can see.
An analogy to describe it better: You are in a car but can't see out the window. The road is too smooth to feel if you are moving or not. How do you know what is going on? Now we give you a window to see the trees that aren't moving (the frame ground). If the trees are moving by from your perspective, then you are moving.