Oop's, miscommunication alert. My point there was with the unregulated vs. regulated. I think there are far more scooters with AC headlights than with DC headlights although DC systems seem to be getting more common. You can't rely on headlights being on or off as a method of determining AC or DC. As far as the diagram you presented, I thought you were using that to modify your machine. That diagram has DC headlights. I don't think it is as similar to your machine as you may think. Or maybe not?
The auto choke is AC powered. That is the only thing on the AC side of the lighting system. The ignition is AC powered as well but that is powered by the AC ignition power coil not the lighting system. I haven't seen a GY6 electrical system yet that used unregulated AC.
The flameout switch is labeled left to right as IC, E, AE, TL I believe. IC = ignition circuit? its wired as a kill switch E = Earth? ground AE = no clue. The wiring goes to the meter indication (dash light), the tail light and the headlight dimmer switch. TL = no clue. The wiring is the switched 12v dc + circuit (your black wire circuit). That switch is shown in the lower left switch block. The switch block shows two positions or modes. 1. part circle with no x (kill off ?) 2. part circle with x (kill on ?) I believe that the switch block is shown wrong. I think that the jumper on the right (AE - TL) should be a row up (kill off ?)
The circuit you provided has DC headlights in original format. There are two bulbs that each have a low beam and a high beam. Your mod replaces those with a low beam bulb and a high beam bulb. That will affect the way you wire the relay control circuit. Even so, that is a DC circuit. Your switched 12vdc + is not complete. Going be hard to explain - I"ll do it in stages. This is where I wish I was better with graphics or video. I'm going off a diagram I have titled TaoTao Quantum Tour 150. Its a bit easier for me to read the text and I think it is the same as yours. This pertains to your black lines on the diagram and I will refer to lines that cross but do not make electrical contact as "crossing lines" and lines that cross and do make electrical contact as "intersecting lines". 1. Going to the ignition switch terminal "Batt" go down 7 lines. That is a intersection (I'll call it I1). It only goes left 2. From I1 go left a short distance to I2. 3. From I2 go up to the Flameout switch far right terminal TL. 4. Go back to I2 and go left to "Meter" "oil press gauge"
That looks great. Looks like a aux power plugin your adding? If so they are notorious for overloading and blowing fuses, If it does not have its own fuse, I would add one specifically for that. Otherwise you may find yourself without headlights. I noticed that you have AC relays for headlights, why AC. Not sure what your up to there(relay control circuits not shown) and I am curious. I think I might see a problem depending on your design..
Great idea. A good way to familiarize yourself with your system. Its like solving a puzzle. I have that diagram labeled as a TaoTao Quantum Tour 150. Its a bit hard to read the blurry text. I like to go through these diagrams and find clues as to what the specs are. This diagram I spec'ed as: Stator:Single phase, 8 pole (my diagram is labeled as 8 pole), full wave, AC style. CDI: AC powered Auto choke: AC powered, 5 ohm/5 watt current limiting resistor. Everything except CDI and Autochoke is DC powered. Lighting circuit: 15 amp rated, approximately 180 watts. Battery: 12v 7AH. Side bracket flameout switch (I believe it to be a sidestand killswitch). Oil gage Various bulb wattages shown.
Ah yes, the mystery black wire. I haven't found any official factory explanation but the general notion is that some RR's have circuit design that can allow reverse current from the battery to discharge through the RR when the engine is not running which will drain the battery. The black wire being connected to switched +12vdc can electronically disconnect the RR charge circuit from the battery and prevent discharge while the machine sits. Not all RR's have this setup. The blocking diode that you have on your rig serves the same function. It allows current to flow from the RR to the battery for charging but blocks discharge current going from the battery to the RR. The only definite way to tell success is to run it for a bit and see if it is charging properly and that the battery is not draining down when it sits.
The top diagram matches your description of the Wht wire powering the auto choke but its a 7 wire RR. The bottom diagram matches your description of the RR output going to the blocking diode, battery and lights.
Not sure how many wires that RR has. I'm thinking 6? One plug with 3 yellows and one plug with Wht, Red, Grn? Its possible that the Wht RR output wire can be used to power the auto choke. I'm confused by the photo. Looks like RR Red(+12 v dc output to battery) connects to Grn/Wht which is spliced to a Grn? If so, that's not good. Electrons don't care what color the wires are if you rig things up right at the other end but that system uses Grn as the chassis ground.
I'm certainly interested. I love the mechanicals of this stuff and am learning a lot about the tuning and aftermarket parts available. I have studied my machine pretty thoroughly and have a couple of points I'd like to bring up, but I'll make separate threads so as not to hijack this one. One thing I don't see discussed much is the torque sensing function. I'm pretty well versed on the snowmobile side and am interested to hear how it plays into the scooter side.
Naw, I've got dialup on the desktop PC and whenever a page like the "Enter username and password" comes up, I panic and scramble to enter something before the thing locks up. So SD12 came from thin air. I have the internet on my phone also but a ... yeah. Thanks all for the welcome.
Lots of great info here. I'm amazed at how much people are messing with these CVT's and the availability of aftermarket parts. I come from the world of snowmobile CVT's and have quite a bit of experience with the Polaris P85 systems in particular, mostly with maintenance and repair, very little with aftermarket modding (quite spendy). There are some major differences but also similarities. I would suggest breaking the system into 3 sections for simplicity: 1. Basic CVT section. Variable drive pulley, drive belt, variable driven pulley 2. Clutch section: Clutch backplate, clutch arms and pads, clutch springs, clutch bell 3. Torque sensing section: The angled groves on the driven pulley movable sheave.