Typical 150cc GY6 Switched 12v DC Circuits

18 posts in this topic

Posted

It took a while but I'm finally figuring out the "logic" of my 150cc Chinese scooter wiring. Attached is a typical simplified 150cc GY6 wiring diagram highlighting what circuits are 12v DC when you turn on the ignition switch. The 12v AC circuits are left greyed out. Note that some of the green-colored circuits are "shared" between AC and DC functions. YMMV.

Michael

remarkable-150-cc-engine-wiring-diagram-images-schematic-gy6-150cc.jpg

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Posted (edited)

a slightly updated graphic:

remarkable-150-cc-engine-wiring-diagram-images-schematic-gy6-150cc.jpg

Edited by MJSfoto1956

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Posted

Good job!

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Posted

Great idea. A good way to familiarize yourself with your system. Its like solving a puzzle.

I have that diagram labeled as a TaoTao Quantum Tour 150. Its a bit hard to read the blurry text.

I like to go through these diagrams and find clues as to what the specs are.

This diagram I spec'ed as:

Stator:Single phase, 8 pole (my diagram is labeled as 8 pole), full wave, AC style.

CDI: AC powered

Auto choke: AC powered, 5 ohm/5 watt current limiting resistor.

Everything except CDI and Autochoke is DC powered.

Lighting circuit: 15 amp rated, approximately 180 watts.

Battery: 12v 7AH.

Side bracket flameout switch (I believe it to be a sidestand killswitch).

Oil gage

Various bulb wattages shown.

 

 

 

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Posted

Once you've cleaned up a generic diagram to more closely align with your specific vehicle, it is then necessary to add your intended modifications into the sketch -- it really helps when you're wiring things up! Here's what I'm up to these days:

 

 

remarkable-150-cc-engine-wiring-diagram-images-schematic-gy6-150cc.v2.jpg

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Posted

Once you've cleaned up a generic diagram to more closely align with your specific vehicle, it is then necessary to add your intended modifications into the sketch -- it really helps when you're wiring things up! Here's what I'm up to these days:

 

 

remarkable-150-cc-engine-wiring-diagram-images-schematic-gy6-150cc.v2.jpg

Those pictures you're making are stunningly clean! This is what should be in scooter manuals.

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Posted

 This is what should be in scooter manuals.

yep.

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Posted

That looks great.

Looks like a aux power plugin your adding? If so they are notorious for overloading and blowing fuses, If it does not have its own fuse, I would add one specifically for that. Otherwise you may find yourself without headlights.

I noticed that you have AC relays for headlights, why AC. Not sure what your up to there(relay control circuits not shown) and I am curious. I think I might see a problem depending on your design.. 

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Posted

That looks great.

Looks like a aux power plugin your adding? If so they are notorious for overloading and blowing fuses, If it does not have its own fuse, I would add one specifically for that. Otherwise you may find yourself without headlights.

I noticed that you have AC relays for headlights, why AC. Not sure what your up to there(relay control circuits not shown) and I am curious. I think I might see a problem depending on your design.. 

Yeah not shown are three extra waterproof fuses, one for each circuit. 

The AC relay coils are driven by the 12VAC headlight circuit. The switched circuit is 12VDC of course. Perfectly legal to do, in fact done all the time.

M

 

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Posted (edited)

Yeah not shown are three extra waterproof fuses, one for each circuit. 

The AC relay coils are driven by the 12VAC headlight circuit. The switched circuit is 12VDC of course. Perfectly legal to do, in fact done all the time.

M

 

One thing about the A/C relays is that you may have erratic operation, it really depends on your relays....  Reason I say this is because you do not have any 12VAC circuits. The A/C current is unregulated and non-rectified... What that means is your voltage can be anywhere from 5v~16v+..... This is why headlights dim and and get brighter with RPMS. So, if your relay supports those kind of tolerances, you should be golden. If not, they will only operate when you're real close to 12VAC at the right RPM's....

Edited by DMartin95

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Posted

One thing about the A/C relays is that you may have erratic operation, it really depends on your relays....  Reason I say this is because you do not have any 12VAC circuits. The A/C current is unregulated and non-rectified... What that means is your voltage can be anywhere from 5v~16v+..... This is why headlights dim and and get brighter with RPMS. So, if your relay supports those kind of tolerances, you should be golden. If not, they will only operate when you're real close to 12VAC at the right RPM's....

Yup. The AC relays I purchased claim to work with a wide range of voltages.

But I haven't yet tested them in the real-world either! :P

One thing I know I don't want to do is to use a DC relay on an AC circuit -- buzz baby buzz!

M

...and if these AC relays don't work, I'll just go down the rectified/smoothed route to drive a pair of normal 12VDC relays.

M

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Posted

The circuit you provided has DC headlights in original format. There are two bulbs that each have a low beam and a high beam. Your mod replaces those with a low beam bulb and a high beam bulb. That will affect the way you wire the relay control circuit. Even so, that is a DC circuit.

Your switched 12vdc + is not complete. Going be hard to explain - I"ll do it in stages. This is where I wish I was better with graphics or  video. I'm going off a diagram I have titled TaoTao Quantum Tour 150. Its a bit easier for me to read the text and I think it is the same as yours.

This pertains to your black lines on the diagram and I will refer to lines that cross but do not make electrical contact as "crossing lines" and lines that cross and do make electrical contact as "intersecting lines".

1. Going to the ignition switch terminal "Batt" go down 7 lines. That is a intersection (I'll call it I1). It only goes left

2. From I1 go left a short distance to I2.

3. From I2 go up to the Flameout switch far right terminal TL.

4. Go back to I2 and go left to "Meter" "oil press gauge"

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Posted (edited)

The flameout switch is labeled left to right as IC, E, AE, TL I believe.

IC = ignition circuit? its wired as a kill switch

E = Earth? ground

AE = no clue. The wiring goes to the meter indication (dash light), the tail light and the headlight dimmer switch.

TL = no clue. The wiring is the switched 12v dc + circuit (your black wire circuit).

That switch is shown in the lower left switch block.

The switch block shows two positions or modes.

1. part circle with no x (kill off ?)

2. part circle with x (kill on ?)

I believe that the switch block is shown wrong. I think that the jumper on the right (AE - TL) should be a row up (kill off ?)

 

Edited by SD12
getting kill on and off mixed up

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Posted

One thing about the A/C relays is that you may have erratic operation, it really depends on your relays....  Reason I say this is because you do not have any 12VAC circuits. The A/C current is unregulated and non-rectified... What that means is your voltage can be anywhere from 5v~16v+..... This is why headlights dim and and get brighter with RPMS. So, if your relay supports those kind of tolerances, you should be golden. If not, they will only operate when you're real close to 12VAC at the right RPM's....

The auto choke is AC powered. That is the only thing on the AC side of the lighting system.

The ignition is AC powered as well but that is powered by the AC ignition power coil not the lighting system.

I haven't seen  a GY6 electrical system yet that used  unregulated AC.

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Posted

I haven't seen  a GY6 electrical system yet that used  unregulated AC.

I can't agree with this. I *DO* think the Chinese are slowly modernizing their scoots, but with a primary emphasis on eScoots not ICE. Older scoot's headlights are almost universally 12VAC not 12VDC notwithstanding your experience on the matter. The Taiwan folks were the first to upgrade to a DC-primary system a few years ago because of the benefits of LED lights, but given the new emphasis on electric bikes I'm sensing things have been somewhat frozen in terms of change/development in the ICE world. The Chinese ICE bikes are hit or miss WRT AC vs. DC. For example, my CDI is definitely of the "AC" style and my headlights only turn on when the engine is running -- conventional wisdom on various forums says I must have "AC" driven headlights. I'm hedging my bets. 

P.S. I never said this diagram 100% matched my bike. I simply wanted to convey that the circuits highlighted have been verified to match my bike. The rest is as of this moment conjecture given that the base drawing is a Jonway 150cc and my bike is a Jiajue 150cc. For just one example, I don't have an oil gauge. 

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Posted

I can't agree with this. I *DO* think the Chinese are slowly modernizing their scoots, but with a primary emphasis on eScoots not ICE. Older scoot's headlights are almost universally 12VAC not 12VDC notwithstanding your experience on the matter. The Taiwan folks were the first to upgrade to a DC-primary system a few years ago because of the benefits of LED lights, but given the new emphasis on electric bikes I'm sensing things have been somewhat frozen in terms of change/development in the ICE world. The Chinese ICE bikes are hit or miss WRT AC vs. DC. For example, my CDI is definitely of the "AC" style and my headlights only turn on when the engine is running -- conventional wisdom on various forums says I must have "AC" driven headlights. I'm hedging my bets. 

P.S. I never said this diagram 100% matched my bike. I simply wanted to convey that the circuits highlighted have been verified to match my bike. The rest is as of this moment conjecture given that the base drawing is a Jonway 150cc and my bike is a Jiajue 150cc. For just one example, I don't have an oil gauge. 

Oop's, miscommunication alert.

My point there was with the unregulated vs. regulated. I think there are far more scooters with AC  headlights than with DC headlights although DC systems seem to be getting more common.

You can't rely on headlights being on or off as a method of determining AC or DC.

As far as the diagram you presented, I thought you were using that to modify your machine. That diagram has DC headlights. I don't think it is as similar to your machine as you may think. Or maybe not?

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Posted

As far as the diagram you presented, I thought you were using that to modify your machine. That diagram has DC headlights. I don't think it is as similar to your machine as you may think. Or maybe not?

I have verified that the highlighted circuits match my bike. The rest is unverified for my particular 2016 Jiajue 150cc. From what little I know of the Chinese, it is not surprising that a later "DC" bike's wiring would be based on an earlier "AC" design -- think of it as a typical hack taking the path of least resistance. As I adapt my particular system and discover deltas from the diagram, I will update my version of the diagram, with the eventual goal of it being 100% correct. I feel that given the way the Chinese glom together parts apparently on an ad-hoc basis, it is the only way to be sure of what you have. FWIW, I'm not saying my bike is not "DC" -- I'm merely saying that so far it appears to be "AC-style" but trust me: I would certainly welcome the simplicity of a clean DC-only solution! It may very well turn out that way. Fingers crossed. (As I said, I'm hedging my bets). More later. Thanks for the feedback.

M

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Posted

For example, my CDI is definitely of the "AC" style and my headlights only turn on when the engine is running -- conventional wisdom on various forums says I must have "AC" driven headlights. I'm hedging my bets. 

In the diagram provided, the lights are powered VIA D/C...  Red to black, black to brown routed through CDI and flame out, that's why they only come on with with engine running.... Lights on/off with engine running only indicates whether it's an A/C or D/C CDI.... Anyhow, just look at your diagram, the brown wire runs to the DIP switch and switches between blue and white...... Take your volt meter and test the brown with a green ground.... Either A/C or D/C..... No more guessing.... 

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