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oil spray

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Posted

Alot.of oil is coming out of the nipple 9n my valve head. I have a catch can that was empty this morning and it's spraying oil all over the engine and back of bike. Any idea why so much oil is coming out? It's more than the vapor it is suppose to release.

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Posted

Too much oil? Never really heard of it spraying that much, I'll have a few spurts here and there but it don't fill the fuel filter I have mounted and it goes back into the engine when it's off.

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Posted

Need to see Picture of how you have the Valve Cover Vented out that nipple i.e. what does you breather set-up look like?

What Max rpm's are you running?

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Posted

If your crank vent is spewing excessive amounts of oil, It may be a problem with your new rings not seating properly....

You'll need to do a "leak down test" to determine where the problem is.... 

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Posted

Leak down test?

It's not smoking anywhere either. Just lots of oil coming out of the head pcv

Need to see Picture of how you have the Valve Cover Vented out that nipple i.e. what does you breather set-up look like?

What Max rpm's are you running?

l take pic when home

And rpm gauge don't work with my digital cdi but I run them higher than lower :hungry:

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Posted

Three steps on how to do an engine leakdown test

If you do a leak down test, you be able to determine why you have excess crankcase pressure.

 

so if its the rings need to be reseated do i just get new ones and replace them? or can i reseat them?

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Posted

If your rings aren't seating, you first need to find out why they didn't properly seat in the first place before you go putting new (or the current) ones back on....

Pistonguy is our resident expert for all things piston related, I'll let him advise you.... Make sure he's reminded you're working with a new set of rings

But take note, rings aren't always the reason for excess crankcase pressure. 

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Posted (edited)

image.jpeg

image.jpegThis was 

This was Max rpm on a mph run a few weeks ago, She sprayed out a bit 

I have the engine vented but just a hose up high with a small fuel filter attached.

At 8,000 rpm in My Set-Up this is Not Surprising.

Mine Puks out nothing below valve float rpm's.

Edited by pistonguy

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Posted

so if its the rings need to be reseated do i just get new ones and replace them? or can i reseat them?

Lets take it slow before tearing into the engine.

How many miles on her?

What kind of oil are you using?

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Posted

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Posted

There is 3500 miles in the bike. The piston rings and cylinder have maybe 300 because I just replaced 58.5 to 63mm. I'm using 10w40 I forget brand. Supertech I think. I did ride the new piston for a quarter mile with synthetic oil 10w40 4t because I forgot about the break in period. But immediately switched it to the one mentioned above. There was a lot more oil that the pic u posted. More like a puddle from a 7 mile ride to work. It's been doing this since the new piston. But I noticed it more since I installed the catch can. Before it was just the hose leading to under the frame so it didn't spray on the bike. Mind u I'm in AZ and Temps here reaching 100 plus degree already. I do not have the oil cooler attached since the piston upgrade. The head is still the smaller 4 valve not the big one. Gap lash is .004 and .005. Carb is running rich if that makes a diff. New carb should be here today and I will tune it better.

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Posted

That's from the catch can plus what was all over the back of the bike and what ever else was lost to the street. 

1463598791935.jpg

I couldn't get a shot to show all the oil on the back of bike bust assume double that I'd say. And what ever else dripped of during the ride. 

When I added the oil from a completely empty case seeing as I wiped it clean from when I had it apart. I added 0.8 liter the recommended amount specific to the sticker on my bike

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Posted

Also when I check dip stick from right after adding to a cleaned out case. It shows high on the dip stick. So I measure to that spot each time I do an oil change. Figuring that would be .8 lt even if there is a bit left in the case after draining.

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Posted

Bubsox, I've only got a quick second 'cause I'm super busy at the moment.....

Again, I must stress that you do a leak down test. 

When your Piston rings don't properly seal in the engine (*take note, they do not 100% seal), you get pressure blow by. and this lead to excess crankcase pressure....  When that happens, oil escapes anywhere it can... You are having WAY, WAY too much crankcase pressure,

What the test will do.... Once at TDC, your combustion chamber should be around 90% air tight (valves are closed).... 

So, when you pump air into the CC via the spark plug hole, it can only escape 3 place on our scoots....

If you pump air and it blows out your carb, bad intake valve

Blows out your exhaust, bad ex valve.....

If it blows out your crank vent, your rings aren't sealed..... Running a leak down will even tell you how much of a compression loss you have (if there is one).... 

You don't need to take anything apart....  As much wrenching you do, you should get a leak down tester anyways.... Anyhow, this is the proper way to diagnose your excessive crankcase pressure. 

 

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Posted

Ya what I see there is you need t do the leak down.

Hate to say she's dumping pretty good. 

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Posted

yes indeed. i will have that test ran at a local shop soon as i can.. for now till i have time off and money to spend on it i will have to keep adding oil.

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Posted

There is 3500 miles in the bike. The piston rings and cylinder have maybe 300 because I just replaced 58.5 to 63mm. I'm using 10w40 I forget brand. Supertech I think. I did ride the new piston for a quarter mile with synthetic oil 10w40 4t because I forgot about the break in period. But immediately switched it to the one mentioned above. There was a lot more oil that the pic u posted. More like a puddle from a 7 mile ride to work. It's been doing this since the new piston. But I noticed it more since I installed the catch can. Before it was just the hose leading to under the frame so it didn't spray on the bike. Mind u I'm in AZ and Temps here reaching 100 plus degree already. I do not have the oil cooler attached since the piston upgrade. The head is still the smaller 4 valve not the big one. Gap lash is .004 and .005. Carb is running rich if that makes a diff. New carb should be here today and I will tune it better.

It seems trivial but since she was started and initially ran with Synthetic your most likely done and will need to take back down, run a hone thru the cylinder, new rings to make sure and there cheap.   I have more than a little first hand experience with start-ups with  Synthetics on certain engines and there all bad.

Go very light on the assembly lube, More is Not Better. 

 

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Posted

Honestly that's what I was thinking the problem was. The rings due to the synthetic start up. 

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Posted

It seems trivial but since she was started and initially ran with Synthetic your most likely done and will need to take back down, run a hone thru the cylinder, new rings to make sure and there cheap.   I have more than a little first hand experience with start-ups with  Synthetics on certain engines and there all bad.

Go very light on the assembly lube, More is Not Better. 

 

so a synthetic oil start up and drive for a 1/4 mile or so could have messed it up? I was hoping that I caught it in time before any damage could have been done.. yesterday I tried to re seat my rings because they didn't look to bad to me, the cylinder did have a minor shinny/scuffy looking spot or 2. didn't look like anything to serious. was hoping that would correct the issue. but I still have the same oil spaying out the catch can. gonna order new rings and piston to make sure and have a shop hone the cylinder. I hope that fixes the issue.

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Posted

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Posted

So my fix for the oil spray. I added a second pressure escape to a T with my hoses in pics above. Put the catch can a bit higher with a positive case ventalator nipple. New rings and honed the cylinder. I only started the bike and reved it. Gonna drive it to work and see how she goes.. oh and the shop I brought the cylinder to said it looked a bit beat up.. I'm upset with my purchase and taida is my brand for next build. I'll post later to let you all know how it worked.

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Posted

I have one of these exact motors in stock.... Same brand 63mm, 4 valve setup... I should build it and see what's up.... My 58.5mm 4 valve had a little oil spray, but it was comp to pistons he showed in the pics above....

BTW, I just have to ask, do you know how to clock and gap your piston rings? 

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Posted

Yes

I have one of these exact motors in stock.... Same brand 63mm, 4 valve setup... I should build it and see what's up.... My 58.5mm 4 valve had a little oil spray, but it was comp to pistons he showed in the pics above....

BTW, I just have to ask, do you know how to clock and gap your piston rings? 

and the local shop I use to help me agreed that my cylinder did not look true to round and the hone was best he could do to fix it.

I have one of these exact motors in stock.... Same brand 63mm, 4 valve setup... I should build it and see what's up.... My 58.5mm 4 valve had a little oil spray, but it was comp to pistons he showed in the pics above....

BTW, I just have to ask, do you know how to clock and gap your piston rings? 

i actually watched your vid again to double check

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Posted

And the shop guy double checked my gap and clock. There was no marks on the rings so he helped me make sure they were facing correct and in right order. He agreed with what I did. Then the clock was double checked with your vid and his help. A nice man. Only charged me for the hone 20$. And gave me a great deal on the hoses since I no longer use his rival shop up the road. Lol

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