New SMAX XC155 in Taiwan


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Posted

I know of three other SMAX owners here and we ride together some time.  If you try out the three stock ones, or close to stock - they all ride a bit different from each other.

The black one that I am babysitting for a month runs at WOT around 7.5k RPM with me on it @ 87 kilos.  That bike just runs "smooth" is the best way to put it.  My bike is impossible to compare with the other 3 because not much left on it is stock.  I can say the stock ones are more gentle and pleasant to drive when you are just looking to enjoy a calm ride.  My clutch and the black one's clutch are now the same aftermarket brand and his is more fluid while mine is more off/on.

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Posted

while mine is more off/on.

That is how I would describe mine as well..... It's annoying....

 

 

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Posted

I had washed the Simota filters a few days back, swapped out the originals until they were good and dry.  Changed them back today and added some preload to the rear shock.  And a few of the front and rear for kicks.

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Posted

Heya Toby,

                What is the weight of  the stock rollers?

                Also, you mentioned you purchased the KOSO throttle body, do you by chance have a pic of the injector? On page 1 there is an injector, but I can't tell if it's stock or KOSO.... The Big bore Kit I purchased for my SMAX will make it a 180cc also, so I'm thinking I need the 180cc injector but it's hook up's are different.....Here's a link to the injector page on KOSO - LINK

                 Are any adapters required for the injector? 

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Posted

Oh I do not have the stock rollers anymore, tomorrow I can ask the shop what the weight is.  If you are looking for new roller weights, the only good way to do it is to order a roller kit with all the weights and just experiment.  Once you find what you like, order a set of good ones in that weight.

The injector from Koso that you will want is the red one, Yamaha connector type A and it will be marked 160cc.  The stock one is light purple and I'm 99% sure Koso makes it as the OEM for Yamaha 125-155cc because they look identical, even down to the color.  Interesting that they use a lot of 125cc parts in the 155cc SMAX, to include the starter....hint, hint.  Your big bore and stock starter might not make sweet love together too long before the compression kills the starter.  Happens in a lot of marriages.  Never fear, there is one aftermarket model that I have been running for a while and I am happy with it.  But I digress.....

Here are some photos from today.  First photo is the Koso installed and the OEM next to it.  It is a little hard to tell but the Koso is red.  Second is the throttle body to injector and the last is the sticker from the Koso I have installed.

 

 

 

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Posted

Awesome info! exactly what I was needing to know.. Glad you chimed in because I would have likely bought the pink 180cc one... The contacts looks the same and I think it would work, however, doesn't matter because aracer kit shows you're not lacking for fuel...

I contacted aRacer and it appears I can get the kit, but I have to import it.... They no longer make the RCminiplus1, now it's the RCminiplus2.... Basically the same thing with additional features. 

I got the starter covered, Taida makes a starter for the SMAX.

I looked all over the net for info on what weight the stock rollers are to no avail..... 

Thanks for the info! 

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Posted

Awesome info! exactly what I was needing to know.. Glad you chimed in because I would have likely bought the pink 180cc one... The contacts looks the same and I think it would work, however, doesn't matter because aracer kit shows you're not lacking for fuel...

I contacted aRacer and it appears I can get the kit, but I have to import it.... They no longer make the RCminiplus1, now it's the RCminiplus2.... Basically the same thing with additional features. 

I got the starter covered, Taida makes a starter for the SMAX.

I looked all over the net for info on what weight the stock rollers are to no avail..... 

Thanks for the info! 

According to my shop, which is a Yamaha shop, stock SMAX rollers are 11 grams.

And yes, the injector marked 160cc that I have (red one), my ARACER shows injector utilization and I am way under needing a larger one.  In fact when I first loaded the SMAX map for 125% increase bore/larger injector/larger intake it showed I was running a bit too rich and I had to knock it down - based off that the 160cc injector is plenty potent for your needs.

I've seen the RCminiplus 2, it is actually a large improvement over the 1 for fine tuning your AFR at different RPM groups - most interesting is the 0-15% throttle range.

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Posted

Thanks Toby! That info was exactly what I needed to know! 

In regard to the rollers, I think I might start experimenting with some 12 gram rollers....I just do not like how high my RPMs are before she grabs the clutch... Do you recall what gram you went with and if you don't mind sharing, what is your body weight? 

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Posted

Thanks Toby! That info was exactly what I needed to know! 

In regard to the rollers, I think I might start experimenting with some 12 gram rollers....I just do not like how high my RPMs are before she grabs the clutch... Do you recall what gram you went with and if you don't mind sharing, what is your body weight? 

While I realize every bit of the drivetrain you modify makes a difference, here if people want to change their engagement RPMs they change out the main spring - the springs are even labeled on the package with the approximate RPM they will kick at.  The stiffer the spring, the higher the RPMs if memory is correct. 

I weigh 88k, I use a mix of 9s and 10s, my main spring is extremely stiff and my final drive gear is one step lower than stock.  My rear tire is a bit bigger as well, I suppose that makes a tiny difference.  You could probably keep your 11s, get a lighter main spring and even push your final gears one step higher if you are looking for a highway bike.

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Posted (edited)

While I realize every bit of the drivetrain you modify makes a difference, here if people want to change their engagement RPMs they change out the main spring - the springs are even labeled on the package with the approximate RPM they will kick at.  The stiffer the spring, the higher the RPMs if memory is correct. 

I weigh 88k, I use a mix of 9s and 10s, my main spring is extremely stiff and my final drive gear is one step lower than stock.  My rear tire is a bit bigger as well, I suppose that makes a tiny difference.  You could probably keep your 11s, get a lighter main spring and even push your final gears one step higher if you are looking for a highway bike.

The main spring (contra) will determine when the clutch is engaged, but the very first thing that engages is the variator....You gotta think, the variator is at like 2200 rpm before it even starts to engage the clutch.In fact, I don't have a good clutch "lock" until about 3000 rpms. 

So, the theory is that you want to get the clutch spinning sooner with heavier weights. I'm hoping for a clutch lock around 2500 variator rpms.... 

As a side note, I will likely have to tune the clutch as well.... As discussed previously, my SMAX, when the clutch engages, actually lurches.... Rollers will not help me here.....

When I do my BBK and install the aRacer kit, I will go with some taller gears. 

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For anybody new to this thinking about tuning your CVT:

Roller/Slider weights determine how fast the variator opens/closes

The Main Clutch spring (Often refered to as the Contra Spring) Determines when your clutch pulley opens 

The clutch arm/pad springs  determine when the pads engage the bell...

Note - Some aftermarket clutches have extra springs/weights/pins that "lock" the pads on the bell at given RPM's

2 Note - Some terminology I have seen used in regard to clutch is "lock" and "slippage"... On a normal clutch, when the pads begin to make contact, there's a certain amount time that the pads are slipping on the bell and not fully engaged.... Once fully engaged, I've seen this action refereed to as "locked"

Edited by DMartin95
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Posted

Hows the Yam doing Toby?

That is one fine Scoot.

If I would ever pony up for a quality scoot its the Yamaha.

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Posted

Hows the Yam doing Toby?

That is one fine Scoot.

If I would ever pony up for a quality scoot its the Yamaha.

It is doing great with the only issue is it is hard on batteries.  Because of the increased...um...everything in the engine the stock battery physical size, combined with battery choices here in Taiwan, result in a huge strain on the battery during startup.  No biggie, batteries are cheap.

 

It is about time for new tires.  Currently I have Bridgestones without complaint but the current popular tire of the day here is some Michelin.  Not sure what I will end up with.  I leave for a trip to Thailand in a few days (so I will be driving the Honda PCX while there), when I get back I will go tire shopping.  Anybody have suggestions?  I do city and twisty mountain roads, no highway, and I do not ride in the wet/rain very often.

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Posted

I would go michelin city grip, 130 70 13 front and 150 70 13 rear, they don't make that size front so I would just order 2 rear tires in the sizes I wrote, that is what I'm going to do.

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