CPI Oliver 125 Mods

298 posts in this topic

Posted

:rofl:

Thats some funny snit right there...

True talk man, especially if I pour a glass of scoth and walk outside to have a drink with the scooter, then shes really pissed, lol. 

The scoot is running great, I have to go up one size on the idle jet, I'm about 3/4 turn out on the air screw

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Posted

Hey guys I've been doing some routine runs with the scoot for the past few weeks, runs like a charm. Lost the speedometer cable on the way to work one morning, don't think it liked going past 95km. It literally torqued itself apart. 

I had a friend at a machine shop turn down my Nibbi variator for me so I can run it with my kick starter. When I checked the ware marks, I'm still within the belt limit, just within it. But I like having the reliability of my kick starter. Have been only using it since back on the road, added a capacitor so I can use my horn.

Anyways they are raising the speed limit to 100km on the highways soon, so me needs more speeds, more reliably without overrevving the engine. I can pull 105-110 with the engine at full tilt with 1/4 oil in her. 

Back to the drawing board to better gearing, tomorrow (well later today lol) I'll be trying to piece together this jigsaw of sprocket and chains in the case. Will get some pics as I go along and keep you all updated. The machine shop screwed up on the measurements so I need to fix it myself. I need to get my hands on a lathe. 

Anyone know if I can trust a Harbor Freight mini lathe? 

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Posted

IMG_2739.gif

file2-1.gif

Ohh i acn finally upload pics again, had to convert them to gif. format. 

So basically thats the exhaust I'm using for the while and the chain and sprockets is my attempt at gearing, still have to test fit into the case and see if it will be happy. 

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Posted

Pipe looks good, don't know nothing about the chain gearing, only on motorcycles, front rear sprocket changes, 1 gear on the front is close to adding or suptracting 3 on the rear, but that's drive sprocket to rear wheel sprocket. 

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Posted

So good joke for you all, at least we can have a laugh, in my rush to get a solution, I overlooked the simplest of things. Drive from an input gear will cause the opposite rotation of the output gear. LMAO I made a high speed reverse, live and learn I say. 

I was thinking about doing a manual clutch for the bike and I can control the gearing via sprockets. I am thinking of retrofitting the 3D Motorsports Manual clutch for our application. the design is pretty simple and I should be able to modify a few parts to get it to fit out needs. For now it's just a thought but I have to get one anyway for an upcoming project.

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Posted

Last week I pulled up in work and left a pool of gear oil, I thought it was the seal leaking, turned out to be a crack in the case cover. Changed it out for another, I also had to transfer one of the bearings across from the cracked case, nothing a propane torch couldnt handle. back up and running. Its times like these I realize how much I like to wrench cause i know a lot of people would throw this thing in the trash where it belongs lol.

file.gif

file1.gif

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Posted (edited)

Hey guys, started this year with a failed stator, got a replacement and am back up and running.

While the side cover was off I decided to do a free mod based on a video done by 90GTVert from youtube

basically you elongate the holes for the pick up coil to advance the timing . I believe the advance is only about 2-3 degrees, I will verify this later with a degree wheel and timing light. I used a rat tail file.

I still plan to file the flywheel key to add more timing advance, I can get about 8 degrees.

the modification has really brought out the grunt the A10 cam has to offer across the band.

top speed now is 110km/h. I wish I had some gears so I can really push this little thing more, but for now I'm stuck

pickup.gif

Edited by bcyprian25

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Posted

Ok, so how fast can you go in reverse,  and how hard is it to star hahahahq

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Posted

Ok, so how fast can you go in reverse,  and how hard is it to star hahahahq

With the chain in place I have about 95km/h in reverse, lmao, I think steering it may be a problem though, lol.

What I like most about the mod is that starting is as easy before. It does advance the entire timing curve, but because of the stock CDI has an actual curve, starts with low timing then advances with rpm it is not noticeable compared to stock. The lower end performance CDI's don't have a curve at all and just a flat line, making starting hell, especially for me because I kick start only. 

My guess for the more expensive, brand name performance CDI's have a curve with a higher final advance, or more aggressive timing curve.

This weekend I will modify the flywheel key and throw some more timing at her and see what she does.

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Posted

Sounds interesting, just make sure you don't go too far and she starts to ping, you don't want to blow the motor.

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Posted (edited)

Good stuff bcy.

At what rpm are you at the 11kph ?

Keep us updated for sure...

             :cheers:

                   

Edited by pistonguy

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Posted

At what rpm are you at the 11kph ?

             :cheers:

                   

I am honestly not too sure of the rpm, I blew up the digital tach I got from Dan, I have an extra one I have to install. 

The last time I hit that speed before using these Nordlock washers, the cases separated from the vibration and I toasted the motor. (I should have pics of when that happened)

I'll be sure to listen up for pinging.

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Posted

hey guys I need your help, every day the scoot will start and run perfectly to work. When I'm trying to leave, it will start and by the time I stop at the first traffic light its out, happened two days in a row. First time it restarted after a few mins of kick starting and in last nights case I took over half an hour to get it up and running. It would start for a few seconds and die. I checked for spark and saw it when grounded to the case. I actually tried switching the wires on the coil and it fired right up and I was able to ride home (I'm not even sure why that worked, but I know it can work on either polarity but one works better than the other). 

Carb is clean, I even pulled it down last night and blew out the circuits. I have 40 pilot and 108 main, the pilot seems a bit too small, I have the mixture screw 1/2 turn out, but don't have a larger pilot yet. Fuel check.

Engine has good compression, Valve lash set good so no valves open on compression. Compression check.

No air restrictions, I need to get a UNI filter. Air Check

Spark is what I think the problem is. This morning started fine and refused to start back after a run to my dad's. I keep a spare CDI (an old one) it started up good. 

New plug. New Coil. Used stator and pickup. I'm hoping it may be just a bad CDI. any thoughts?

I have around 50 Volts out of the stator winding to the CDI.

Not to sure of the voltage of the coil pick up. Not sure if I may have to recheck the gap of the pickup to the magnet. I'm open to suggestions. 

I'm reaching my limits with shut downs. I'm at 3-4 a week due to spark issues. 

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Posted

Couple things come to mind,,,how's the engine ground strap?  In good shape?, piston had a spark issue on his and it turned out to be a bad cdi,,,

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Posted

Couple things come to mind,,,how's the engine ground strap?  In good shape?, piston had a spark issue on his and it turned out to be a bad cdi,,,

Good point, I will take the ground off and wire brush it to ensure a good connection, will do that at lunch, I'll have to get a new CDI to eliminate the CDI question entirely.

Couple things come to mind,,,how's the engine ground strap?  In good shape?, piston had a spark issue on his and it turned out to be a bad cdi,,,

what do you think about the coil and the polarity? I found it so strange that it would run basically the same with the wires switched.

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Posted

I took off the ground and sanded it, it had some glazed crud on it. I put it back on started up for about a minute and refuses to start.

I changed the CDI this morning so I doubt two CDI's just happen to go bad at the same time. 

Maybe the coil, I'll have to check the resistance once I'm home

 

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Posted

I had a bad pin/post on my coil, the tach would go crazy jumping all around the rpm board, she never died but ran funky. must been firing off a spark any time it felt like it.

  Good luck

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Posted

hey guys, its time to make some serious decisions about an engine replacement. Straight up I cant afford the Taida kit my budget just can't handle it. I'll be coming up at the end of March and decided to get a replacement and save on shipping. 

I was looking at the SSP-G 180 kit I saw but its too many missing items for me to piece together. I emailed Dan but I know he is busy, I'm not sure if he still has the same SSP-G kit he had in his Youtube videos. If I blow 500US on the kit I still dont have a crank and half the other things I need to piece together the engine, my donor CPI engine uses everything that isnt on the 157qmj down to the bearings and seals.

Anyway I may get stuck with getting a 157QMJ long case and a few parts to hop it up. I'm thinking a Taida 61mm BBK, Performance head to match, cam, CVT kit and a good carb and gears. 

Let me know if anyone has contact with Dan, I know he had some CVT kits before but I dont see any on the site anymore. 

Im open for ideas and suggestions. 

I dont have the time to convert to a 250 or 300 bike engine, I'm not even sure where to get a complete one with carb and everything on it. So I'm stuck with the GY6

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Posted

Nice to see ya bcy.

I like the idea of moving to a157QMJ and do the top end in Taida, not just because Taida but to get a bottom end with all the common easier to find parts.

Not sure what the end goal or daily needs are even my properly tuned stocker can pull some more gear if need be.

I may drop a gear just to drop a few rpm's at the same mph I already travel at.

                                                :cheers:      

 

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Posted

I'm not 100% sure where this build will end up, but I plan to use it daily. So I guess I can't go too crazy, but then again everything is relative. I have to travel 30km one way to work in fairly heavy traffic in the morning and am free in the evening. The speed limit has increased and I was making 100-110 with the previous setup but at WOT with the 155BBK and performance head.

I would really like to get somewhere in the range of 140 plus if possible. I plan to get the head and piston coated

The CPI GTR150 which has 16inch wheels can hit 135 with an air filter and pipe upgrade and stock everything else. I have a good friend with one, I can blow him away till I top out my gearing.

I would really like to get a stroker kit and a bigger BBK in the long run. I may get another engine to play with for that though

I also wanted to know your thoughts on compressed air supercharging instead of nitrous.

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Posted

The compressed air supercharger probably fits you needs better, I need/want a 5-6 second spray and looks like your looking for something more sustained.

As a certified rescue Diver and Nitrox to 42% it appears they are working with up to maximum Scuba tank pressures of just over 3,000psi or 206.84 bar.

Only Air on the fill as any Nitrox mix would have extreme gas temperatures with the higher percentage of oxygen.

I suppose you'd have to start out trying to determine him much air the particular GY you have uses to figure on a size of a bottle.

The smallest I see are the Spare air devices down to 3.0 cu ft. its expensive since it has a regulator at just over $300.

The smallest Scuba Tanks I run across are 13 cu ft at under $150 and that would still be a sizable bottle on a scooter..

Kinda funny I have a couple 80 cu ft tanks here and just strap it in the BC vest could have it on my back just like diving.. hell of a thing if ya fell off and knocked the top off the tank, you'd be a Rocket..  not too many survive tank explosions..

 

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Posted

I've had the thought of doing compressed air since my early teens and recently found a youtube video with a grey camaro with the guys talking about Compressed Air Supercharging. 

I like the idea of using it on a small displacement engine as the air supply should last longer, but of course they use 2 large tanks and we will be limited to a smaller sized tank.

I would like to have it as only a demand, so maybe armed with a switch but then get stuck with running rich.

Maybe we can get Bubs and Dan to create some software and sensor pack that will do some closed loop system to control volume output from the air regulator to maintain a specific manifold pressure using an air pressure or map sensor. Will also have to use a momentary switch that will only activate the system at WOT with the system armed, and a correctly sized T manifold with actuated valve in front the carb to lock off the air from atmosphere and allow flow from the regulator to pressurize the carb and manifold.

I will have to get one or two extra engines to test on cause I see things going boom.

Will be a great project though. I can also use the air pump for my PCP airgun to recharge the air tanks for free.

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Posted

Couldn't you go wet with a fuel solenoid off a wet nitrous system, that way you wouldn't  have to run around rich when the system is not activated.

Your a thinker so this kinda project is right up your alley..

What is a PCP airgun? I have a .22 cal pellet pre charged, the small cylinder works off 3,000psi I have a adapter to fill it from my Scuba tank.

 

IMG_1423.jpg

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