And so it begins

49 posts in this topic

Posted

Well, for better or worse, I bought this 2016 Cazador 170cc UTV.

 

The good – most of it is in excellent shape. Very low miles, was (mostly) taken good care of, and the mods that the previous owner did were done quite well.

 

The bad – the rear body panel was broken badly enough that I am just replacing it. The steering shaft universal is bad and will need replacement. For some reason, the cooling shroud around the cylinder is missing and I will be ordering a replacement soon. It is hard to start and I suspect it will be a combination of needing a carb cleaning and perhaps a cold start enricher replacement as well.  But perhaps the worst is the engine, it vibrates badly, are these cheap engines typically that poorly balanced or is it perhaps a problem with the CVT? Either way, that will need to be addressed somehow.

 

So for now, I am taking care of the body stuff (replacement panels, replacing missing body panel screws (with blue Loctite), modifying the battery compartment to hold a larger U1 style of battery (Dan, I will be talking to you soon about a stator upgrade as soon as I figure out which style I currently have), and a mount for a front brush guard / winch mount. Then I can start to address other issues such as a windshield, side curtains, external oil filter and so on. To be continues …

00606_92v91vtn5h2_1200x900.jpg

00V0V_i7s8x3IN92q_1200x900.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

John, I look forward to a good build thread. please post lottsa pictures.

My GY-6 runs Very Quite and Smooth for what it is. ,one thing I hope is not your problem is these Crankshafts are Multi Piece and Not Welded, I have not had the experience in a Gy but in single cyl, Sachs Snowmobile motors it can be over rev to the point it will/can twist the crank throws enough it will rattle your teeth loose.

Got pretty good at splitting them open and placed the Crank in a Center stand and true it with a Brass Hammer.

  Good Luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

The more I tear into this, the more loose / missing bolts and screws I find. It looks like I will be going through the whole thing checking all fasteners. I think I will do a search for the "giant economy size of Loctite". Later on, I think I will remove the CVT and crank it up to eliminate that as the vibration issue. Does anyone know if the Tada crank and piston sets are a balanced unit? I used to ride a few different Honda single cylinder motorcycles and none of them ever vibrated any where near like this and the GY6 is a Honda based design. So that tells me something is very wrong somewhere. Oh well, thanks for the input. I appreciate your response. John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

No, I haven't seen any products sold as a Spun Rotating Assembly

I worked with these folks at Crankworks. they seem to do a fine job.

http://crankworks.com

Again my Stock Internal GY-6 runs Very Smooth and Quite.

                Good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Thanks for the reply. For the time being, I am working on other issues. After I get these other things taken care of, I will then deal with the vibration issue. By the way, thanks for the link, interesting site. John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Well, I have been busy going through all of the various systems, finding things that need correction and I am about ready to start to put this thing back together. Today I pushed it out of the garage and power washed most of the dirt and grime off of the thing, maybe now I will not get dirt in my face every time I crawl under it.

Things that need addressing:

The sprocket on the axle is not in line with the sprocket on the transmission output shaft. I need to make a spacer (about 1/8" to 3/16" to get it back in line. This means removing the axle, passenger side wheel hub, bearing to get access to the sprocket hub. Then put back together and check the alignment.

Make a new bottom support mount to hold the new battery compartment.

I want to replace the exhaust. To me this looks too small for a 170cc engine. And if I ever have to go into the engine, it will become a 190cc to 200cc engine when I get through, so I feel that this needs to be around a 1" exhaust. Any expert opinions?

I want to remove the EGR system. I have a few questions about that but I will post them in the Engine Section.

Redo the light bar on top of the front roll bar (wiring).

Add two ATC fuse blocks - one switched and one un-switched.

Upgrade from a 7-1 AC system to a 12 pole DC system.

John

I_Am_Ready_to_Start_Putting_This_Back_To

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

John, that beast is awesome!

Do you know anything about the Polaris RZR 170cc? I think it's just like yours based on the pics and info you provided.... I've had a lot of people come to me for parts for the polaris..... It has a b-block GY6 but it uses a different crankshaft,... You can use Taida BBK's, heads and cams but not cranks. 

ANyhhow, I'm looking forward to your build! Very nice ride :rockon:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

All I can tell you is that it is a Chinese Clone based on the Polaris RZR. Here is a pic of the engine case number. A lot of help there. The owner's manual was printed by Jiujiang Hanheng Electromechanical Co., Jiujiang Economic Development of Jiangxi Province, West Port Industrial Park

 

Engine ID Plate.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

It has been a little while since I have updated this thread, but I am getting close to being through, or at least through for the time being. I got the 12 pole stator, R/R, CDI and a wiring harness from Dan, put everything together and it fired right up first time. It definitely starts easier with the DC setup over the AC that was on it originally. Then, I (finally) finished up the new battery box and installed it under the driver seat along with the larger battery. At this point, I could really start putting things back together, I do not have the latest pictures ready, but I will include a few that give you an idea of what I have been doing. One of the things that I was unhappy with was the fuel line was loose and close to the exhaust, so I took a piece of 9ga wire (fencing wire) and bent it into shape and then attached the line(s) to the wire. This gave the rubber lines the support they needed to stay out of the way of the exhaust. Also, a while back I asked a question about load resistors being used to bring the voltage down from 14VDC to 10-11 VDC for the enricher http://www.dansgaragetalk.com/topic/850-r-value-for-enricher-resistor/ . I went ahead and installed both, the 3.3 and the 6.8 ohm resistors, but currently I am only using the 6.8 resistor. I will do some testing over the summer and see if I can give everyone better information, but so far, I am liking the 6.8, not sure how that would be in cold weather though. The last picture is just the finished wiring in the engine compartment and a fuse panel that I built (the original only had a single fuse for the whole kart). Over all, I am pleased with the progress, just wish it was not going so slow. After I finish up with the front brush guard, I will post the final pictures. John

PS Dan, did you ever get the write up as a PDF?

Engine Rewired and Finished.jpg

Enricher Resistors.jpg

New PDP Switched and UnSwitched.jpg

Support Rod For Fuel Line.jpg

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Hey now that looks fun.. 

Nice work. Cant wait to see the finished project.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Ya coming together real nice, I was wondering what happened to this project, 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Just getting old and slow - you know, life.

Ya coming together real nice, I was wondering what happened to this project, 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Boy do I know old and slow hahahaha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Well, I believe that phase 1 is now complete. As always, it has taken longer than I had planned on, but I am happy with that I have done.  As a recap I have:

Replaced the small OEM battery with a U1 size battery. This is the same as your riding lawn mower battery. I felt that this was necessary as I was installing a winch plus a “real” electrical system. This also involved raising the driver seat 1” to clear the battery terminals, plus modifying the driver seat, again, for clearance.

Changed out the original 8-pole AC charging and ignition system to a 12-pole DC system. This was most definitely worth the effort. It starts very easily now and I have a charging system capable of handling the electrical load I am placing on it.

Installed a power distribution panel as this originally only had a single fuse for the whole kart.

Repaired rear body panel, steering U-joint, repainted the gas tank, fixed numerous rattles (vibration), rewired the LED light bar, added a horn and rear view mirror, built a front brush guard primarily for a mount for the winch.

Added a winch for work around our summer cabin.

 

Phase 2 will be this fall and winter. In this second phase, I want to install fenders on all four wheels to cut down on mud and dirt being slung under the kart and getting into the electrical connections. Add an external screw-on oil filter. Add gages for oil temperature and oil pressure. Correct any issues I discover over the summer. I guess that is it for now. I need to finish up with a few things around the house before we can start packing for the summer. Later. John

 

 

DSC_0157.jpg

DSC_0158.jpg

DSC_0164.jpg

DSC_0169.jpg

IMG_20170607_192635_Compressed.jpg

DSC_0 157.jpg

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Hey now that looks pretty nice, good work, so how does it run ?????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

It seems to run fine, although we have not gone very far. Again, this buggy is not for going fast, but for "puttering" around a campground where the speed limit is 10 MPH (more or less). My real concern is going to be the altitude of 8,300 feet. So far, what little testing I have done has been at 300 feet. I pulled the plug earlier and it was black, but it runs fine and does not smoke, so I feel that it needs to be run some and then pull the plug again. I may try to get it out someplace this weekend and actually run it a little bit. I still have other issues to take care of before we can leave. John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

You may have to lean out the jets a bit at 8300 ft, or it will smoke like a diesel,  and have no power at all, fuel injection is so much better handling elevation changes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

You would think a re-jet would be mandatory, but last year someone went up there with a 150cc go kart and his ran fine. No bogging, black smoke or anything. I will go up there and see how it runs and take it from there. I wish I still had a compression tester. I would like to run a compression test here, and then another one when we get up there to compare the difference. John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Very cool!

The winch is awesome!!! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Thanks. As we know, you have been involved with this project as well, I appreciate all of your help, responses, and support.

 I will be building a retaining wall made up of railroad ties that weigh somewhere between 125 and  200 pounds, depending on actual size (they can vary) and quality. I will need some way to move them from the driveway to where the wall will be built. I plan to tie a snatch block (pulley) to this big oak and using winch, pull the tie from the driveway to the tree via the pulley. I will include a picture to better explain how I intend to do this. Thanks again everyone who added comments and support. John

 

Location_for_new_retaining_wall.thumb.jp

 

 

Edited by John7656

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

We have been up in the mountains for almost a week and I can report both good and not so good. The good is all of the work I have done works and works well. As I/we suspected, the altitude will require some more work. I found out that I do not have a plug socket here so I will need to get one in the near future so that I can read the plug, but I know that it is running too rich. The other thing is the gearing it too high (2.91 final chain drive ratio). The sprocket on the rear axle is a 32 tooth and I am thinking something around a 36 - 38 tooth sprocket would be about right, That would make the final ratio somewhere between 3.27 to 3.45. In looking around, it looks like most of the sprockets are a four bolt pattern mounting to the hub and my hub is a three bolt pattern. So in short, can anyone recommend a vendor that might be able to help me figure this out? I do not think Dan can be of help to me with this problem. Also, I will need new jets. Dan, do you sell a jet kit? And finally, the CVT is engaging at a higher RPM than I would like, but before I go into that, I want to get the rear drive corrected first. Thanks in  advance for any input.

PS We do not have very much in the way of Internet access right now so it might be a few days before I can respond. John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Well, it is time for an update.

 

We have been up at our mountain cabin for about a month and a half and it has been interesting. Shortly after we got here, the water pump on our Suburban went out. Fortunately, it waited until after we got here and not while we were in the desert of West Texas and New Mexico. Next, we got our cell phone plan upgraded to unlimited data and my wife's phone died. Turns out that the authorized Apple reseller that we got her phone through sold us a iPhone that was originally for the Sprint network and we are on Verizon. Long story short, I bought her a new iPhone (eBay) that was a Verizon phone to begin with and got her back up and working.

 

Somewhere between these two events, the UTV suddenly made a terrible noise when I tried to start it. I immediately shut it down, double checked everything and tried to start it again with the same noise. I towed it back to our place and pulled off the fan cooling shroud to check the fan and flywheel. They were good, but there was definitely something hitting preventing the crankshaft from turning. So with some help, I removed the swingarm and then the motor. I took it to my (small) workshop and pulled the flywheel off to continue trouble shooting (I had compression so I did not believe it was a rod or piston issue). Come to find out, the two bolts that hold the new 12 pole stator to the block had come loose and the stator was hitting the rivets inside of the flywheel. Yes, I know that I was supposed to use Loctite on the bolts when I replaced the stator, however, the bolts were very hard to break loose when I took the original one off. One of the bolts that holds the strap that holds the stator wires away from the flywheel still has not come off, I had to bend the strap enough to get the wires behind it. So for this reason, I made the decision not to use Loctite when putting everything back together. Fortunately, aside from a few wires on the stator being damaged, everything else was OK. So I contacted Dan and got another stator along with a few other things and got it put back together and running.

 

About a week later, it refused to start after stopping for a while. I checked for spark and it was good. Next I checked the fuel filter and it was fine (fuel pump was working). Again I had compression, so I suspected carb / fueling issue. This time, I found the issue fairly quickly. The two nuts that hold the intake manifold onto the head had come loose. Again, this was caused when I had to take it off to install the new cooling shroud and did not use Loctite to hold the nuts on tight.

 

So I am posting this in hopes that it will prevent someone else from making the same mistakes that I made.

 

On another update issue, I have found that the 6.8 ohm resistor on the enricher works great. I tried to use the 3.3 by itself but the voltage was higher than I wanted. And when I tried to use the two together in series, it stayed too rich too long. Perhaps if you were in a very cold climate, you might benefit from both together, but not for summer or driving where the temperature is above freezing. I will update the link I had posted in the electrical area.

 

The last thing concerns the altitude and 10% grades. I suspected that I would have to make some jetting and/or gearing changes, but really did not know what to expect in advance as our primary home is 300 feet above sea level and relatively flat. So I just waited until I got here to see how it preformed. It actually did better than I had expected, but with both, my wife and I in the kart and going up the steepest grades, it really struggles. I had planned on being able to get a different final drive chain sprocket to correct this issue but was surprised that I cannot find any alternate sprockets that fit this kart. Bottom line, I will have to wait until the fall when I get back home to make an adapter to fit a motorcycle sprocket that will adapt to my existing sprocket hub. I have the equipment at home to do this, but not up here. So for the time being, it  is working OK, and with careful driving in some places, I can make do. I also want to change the RPM at which the clutch engages. It comes in too late and all at once. I want a gentler, more controlled engagement so again, something for me to do over the winter.

 

All in all, it is doing the job that I bought it to do and with a little more work, I believe it will work just  fine. To be continued later in the year. John

 

Sprocket and Hub 1.jpg

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Nice update, and I appreciate your honesty in the Loc-Tite you should have used on various fasteners.

Remind me what Altitude you are at up in the Monitions..

        Cheers

                                            

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

There's a bunch of custom sprocket makers out there ,,you'll need to send them your original so they can get the center right and will make any tooth count you could ever want,,,nice job on the repair "build so far tho looking good

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Locktight I put that sheet on everything, good read bud, the best part was you found and fixed the problems.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now