58 posts in this topic

Posted

those are some pretty big caps!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Yep! They have to be in order to be able to fill-in the gaps in power for these 35W LEDs in between waves. 

And success! I have installed the DC converters and filter circuits I built and they work great! In fact, I think they are even a little brighter. Also, the blue LED I bought a while back for the High-Beam dashboard indicator light works ok now! I am soooo relieved. By the way, the brown wire in my schematic is actually yellow. I'll post an updated schematic when I get the chance. Took me about 7 hours total to build and install the DC conversion system I designed. Not too bad. Now I can relax. Only one funny quirk is the blue led flickers in proportion to the revs when high-beam is off, but I kinda like it, it's like a rev indicator lol. Anyway, here's some pics taken from different angles so you can see how i crammed everything in there lol. The filter circuits were taped over with electrical tape to keep out any stray rain drops and insulate them electrically. Anyway, it all works great!

IMG_1667.JPG

IMG_1668.JPG

IMG_1669.JPG

IMG_1670.JPG

IMG_1672.JPG

IMG_1674.JPG

IMG_1675.JPG

Edited by TexasScoot
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

As usual, the video wouldn't upload so I have uploaded it to YouTube, here: 

In the video, I also show the flashing red LED I installed a while back in the spare red dashboard indicator slot - it's a fake alarm - may as well use that slot for something!

Btw, the cooling fans for the LEDs seem to be louder now and sound really cool right after you turn off the engine, lol.

Edited by TexasScoot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Here's the final version of my schematic with correct wire colors. Glad I finally figured it all out and got it working!

 

AC-DC_Converters.jpg

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

You are the man! A+

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Thanks Michael! I noticed also that my iPhone camera isn’t picking-up that phasing effect on the video from the headlights like it was before, the light just looks steady now. So that shows that the phasing effect is an indicator of AC power on a DC lighting system, which was my guess, but it’s nice to see it confirmed. For reference, the Converters were from superbrightleds.com as linked earlier in this thread, the 3cmx7cm breadboards were from Amazon, the electronic components (16V 15000 uF aluminum electrolytic capacitors, 6A 50V rectifying diodes) were from DigiKey. I also used some 20-gauge automotive wire I got from Amazon. Everything was soldered before hand, wrapped in electrical tape, then connected to the bike circuits with bullet connectors which I also got from Amazon. I was careful to use male and female connectors appropriately so that if I ever wanted to, I could remove the entire setup and easily connect everything back to how it was from the factory. This has been a long, but interesting project and I’ve learned a lot from the experience. 😎✌️

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Wow!!!!! Stellar job dude

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Thanks man!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now