Jiajue Zuma Clone (a.k.a "JayZee")


271 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

I just purchased a "new" 2015 Jiajue JJ150T-16A from powersportsmax.com about a month ago. @ 150 miles I'm just starting to break the engine in. Two oil changes so far and all is well. On a whim a few weeks ago I ordered a NIBBI CVK26 from Nibbi Racing Parts on Amazon and it finally arrived this past Saturday. So I figured it was a good time to install it over the holiday weekend. With a very minor (and super simple) mod to the stock throttle cable it pretty much hooked right up -- except for the two YELLOW wires coming out of the auto-enrichment system (a.k.a. "the choke"). My bike's previous CVK carb had two different color wires (YELLOW and GREEN) coming out of it. On a lark, I thought I'd take a chance and just hook one of the yellows to the yellow and the other yellow to the green. Started right up! But about 5 minutes later my engine out-right died and would re-start. Hmmm. I checked the sparkplug and sure enough no spark. Fortunately I had a spare coil around so I installed that and un-installed the two yellow wires from the auto-enrichment system. And it fired right up - yay! So on to my questions:

  • could the auto enrichment on the NIBBI CVK26 cause the coil to fail if the auto-enrichment wires were installed "wrong"?
  • does it matter which of the two yellow wires from the carb goes to which wire on the harness? (my choices are yellow and green)
  • if it does matter, how do I determine which yellow is the right one to go to the green?
  • and lastly, who sells the best performance coils for GY6 motors?

Thanks! (and happy 4th to everyone!)

Michael

P.S. I am currently running a partially drilled out exhaust together with a customized Simota free-flow air-filter in the stock airbox.

 

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Edited by MJSfoto1956

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Posted

Cool scoot.. I'll have to leave you questions for someone who better knows CVK carbs. I have ran slide carbs too long to remember the vacuum carbs.

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Posted

small details matter...

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Posted

So to limit any future risk, I just ordered a replacement automatic electric enricher module for CVK carbs from a seller on Amazon -- $6.00, free shipping. Will be here in a week. In the meantime, I'll just run without a choke (shouldn't be a problem on these hot summer days). My advice for those considering a NIBBI CVK replacement carb for your Chinese GY6: you might want to order a replacement GY6 enrichment module on eBay or Amazon "just in case" -- it appears that the NIBBI modules are unique. My policy on things like this: fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.

M

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Posted

Hi MJSfoto1956..... Welcome to the forum

I am the official distributor for NIBBI north America. 

The enricher is an A/C circuit which means it is not polarity sensitive (meaning there is no +/-  hot/cold (like in D/C circuit). 

In short, hooking up the enricher did NOT fry your coil. As far as what is your best coil, I would say locate one manufactured in Taiwan or Japan and don't look for a "Big power" one.... The spark plugs are rated and pumping them with to omuch power causes timing/mis-firing issues. When it comes to the coil, my suggestion is look quality vs performance.  In other words, avoid "racing" coils and buy a good quality Kymco stock coil. 

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Posted

Dan,

What you say makes sense: two yellow wires = AC. But clearly typical Chinese GY6 scooters (such as mine) are likely using DC because the wires are Yellow & Green. So I'm not surprised it did nothing. For a while there I was tempted to go with a manual choke, but the auto enrichment modules are so cheap and readily available I can pick up a couple "just in case". FYI, while pondering my dilemma, I ordered one of your CDI/Coil kits -- the "red" one!

Michael

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Posted (edited)

I should add the following notes:

  • The NIBBI CVK26 + HOKA Racing Manifold is a tight fit on my Jiajue 150cc GY6. Not that it doesn't fit in the space allotted -- it most certainly does. But parts of the carb are just 1mm away from touching parts of the motor. Additionally, the HOKA manifold is about 2mm higher than stock -- as such, the manifold bolts are just barely fully threaded on
  • The angle of the carb + manifold is just slightly off from stock-- making attaching the flexible hose from the airbox quite a challenge. Not looking forward to taking the carb on and off to do jet changes.
  • The NIBBI CVK26 throttle cable is about 25mm "shorter" than the stock Chinese one on my bike. To make the stock one work was simple: I looped the end around itself before inserting in the throttle linkage slot, then inserted a stainless steel bolt to fill the loop and voila -- a "shortened" cable that works perfectly. (I'll take pix if it is not clear)
  • The NIBBI CVK26 has an external vacuum port that is in a quite different location than the stock Keihin carb -- on the NIBBI CVK26 the vacuum port is located directly underneath the throttle linkage.
  • The NIBBI CVK26 comes with a much longer breather hose than stock. Rather than cut it to match the stock size (there is some discussion on the web that carbs are "tuned" to the length of their breather hose) I simply routed it "uncut" around the airbox.
  • The float boat drain screw is on the carb itself -- unfortunately, this is difficult to access on my particular scooter due to the frame design (a Zuma Clone)
  • I haven't yet taken it out for a ride -- I'll report back later as to overall performance. 
  • As a side note: I also ordered some extra main jets from Dan "just in case"...

Feel free to ask any questions.

Michael

 

 

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Edited by MJSfoto1956
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Posted

Sometimes the answer is right under your nose: this morning I simply took the fuel enrichment module from the old stock carb and installed it on the new NIBBI CVK26. Voila! Now to clean up and waterproof those cheap Chinese wiring connections...

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Posted (edited)

One question to those with more experience: is it a good idea to Loctite the intake manifold bolts? [nuts]

Thx

M

 

Edited by MJSfoto1956

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Posted

If you mean to the head, no I wouldn't,  if there steel bolts an an aluminum head , if you have to take the bolts back out you will probable pull the threads out of the head.

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Posted (edited)

Dan,

But clearly typical Chinese GY6 scooters (such as mine) are likely using DC because the wires are Yellow & Green.

NO. The enricher is in fact A/C.

On Chinese scooters, Yellow represents A/C.... The enricher is not even tied into the D/C circuit which is everything after the Regulator Rectifier. The enricher taps directly into the Stator A/C feed before the R/R.

Edited by DMartin95

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Posted (edited)

strange -- for the some Chinese scooters, a green wire means "ground".

Which suggests DC.

I'll need to research this more.

Perhaps Jiajue has a different way of doing things...

M

Edited by MJSfoto1956

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Posted

Green does represent ground.... I don't why they chose to represent the neutral with a ground color..... But what I do know is that the yellow feed to the enricher ties directly into the A/C circuit of the stator before the R/R......  

When it comes to Chinese scooters, green does not always represent ground either..... Black is really misleading as well... The battery ground will be black, but throughout the rest of the scooters circuit, black represents hot when key turned on.....  These are reflective of Honda wiring color codes.  

 

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Posted (edited)

If you mean to the head, no I wouldn't,  if there steel bolts an an aluminum head , if you have to take the bolts back out you will probable pull the threads out of the head.

not the studs, the bolts [nuts]. Just curious what the "consensus" is...

M

 

Edited by MJSfoto1956

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Posted (edited)

not the studs, the bolts. Just curious what the "consensus" is...

M

Intake manifold does not have bolts, only studs and nuts. 

I don't know about any "consensus". but what I do I loctite the stud side that goes into the head and no loctite on the nuts. 

On the web, you will not even be able to find a consensus on what grade of gas or what weight of oil to use... And brands, oh my, mention different brands and everyone has their own favorite..... 

BTW, In case you don't know, loctite comes in different strengths....   Samething with permatex.... With Permatex (which is what I use), red is high strength and blue is for everything else.... Loctite is reverse color scheme If I recall correctly....  

Edited by DMartin95

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Posted

Welcome there MJ. 

A couple tips based on Experience.

First the Higher Flow Filter. yes she may outflow but what They Hate to hear me say," The Stock Filter and Airbox Outflow what the Engine Can Use"

As far as I can tell these GY-6 Air-Boxes are Not Resonant Systems so hopefully your Not Screwing that up, But more Flow thru the Stock Box will do nothing.

These OE Boxes are just Velocity Killers, that OE Snorkel on yours is Squished, the Squished utilizing that Hoca manifold. That Squished hose is a velocity killer also.

If your type of riding Weather permitting I have found (having do deal with the hated top engine mount bar) the simple Uni Filter provides the Best Perf.

But all of this is in Vein as your Stock Exhaust has Got to Go if you want any Gain of what you've started.

The Stock Head Pipe is Double walled with a ID Smaller than the Exhaust Port. So even if ya removed your fart can you get no gain until you can get a proper Head pipe on it.

Also with a Proper Exhaust and your 26mm you Will also need to get some Pilot Jets asYour Carb has different ones than are in your stock carb or whats floating around my tool box,  or what seems to be a standard size for all the other CV's I have.

Here is My stock head pipe, Same System as you have, Flange Welded Off Center, Big Goober of Weld and Flashing. No mod on the intake would have done anything but lighten my wallet.

 

 

 

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Here some Nice Stainless Head-Pipes with that Correct ID.

 

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Posted

Heres my ride with all the Intake Cleaned up and Minimized, A whole bunch of crap can go and i do Manual Choke.

Im keeping it supersimple 

 

 

 

 

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Posted

Progress continues on the scooter. Today I fiddled with the carburetor jets (long story there -- but it will have to wait). But I also was frustrated with how poorly constructed the wiring harness is -- in particular with regard to waterproofing all the primary connections. So I picked up a PVC 3/4" conduit box # Lowes and put all the connections inside it (additionally all connections now have dielectric grease). As a final touch, I wrapped everything in self-sealing silicone tape. Not only is this much better protection from the elements, but I think it looks good too. YMMV.

M

 

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Posted

Do you live in a area were you have to keep all that smog control mumba jumbo on there?

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Posted

Do you live in a area were you have to keep all that smog control mumba jumbo on there?

Massachusetts has adopted the same CARB regulations as California (as do 11 other states, btw). Given that the almost non-existent "smog" controls on this bike aren't causing any issues yet, I think I'll play it safe for now. Besides, I have many more projects lined up for this scooter besides the engine. 

M

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Posted

Where in MA are u from? Im from south shore Plymouth MA

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Where in MA are u from? Im from south shore Plymouth MA

Just north of you in Marshfield!

I took a 75 mi ride through Plympton/Plymouth last weekend -- great riding down there!

M

 

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Posted

I am the official distributor for NIBBI north America. 

and in other correspondence you said:

“I will not be carrying these [NIBBI] in the future either as I am switching to carry only Keihin and Mikuni carbs”

So the question is: is NIBBI a reliable company? (my experience with them to date is just so-so: while the quality of manufacturing is high, they sent me 24mm carb first! Then they made me pay for shipping back. Then they sent the wrong sized jets with my 26mm carb. And the fuel enrichment module is not compatible with typical Chinese GY6 scooters. And so on...)

M

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Posted

One question to those with more experience: is it a good idea to Loctite the intake manifold bolts? [nuts]

Thx

M

 

No, I have never found the need or a issue to have to loctite the Manifold Stud Nuts.

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Posted

and in other correspondence you said:

“I will not be carrying these [NIBBI] in the future either as I am switching to carry only Keihin and Mikuni carbs”

So the question is: is NIBBI a reliable company? (my experience with them to date is just so-so: while the quality of manufacturing is high, they sent me 24mm carb first! Then they made me pay for shipping back. Then they sent the wrong sized jets with my 26mm carb. And the fuel enrichment module is not compatible with typical Chinese GY6 scooters. And so on...)

M

I understand you're new to this forum, but do not share information from "PRIVATE" messages in the public forum. Not cool. 

As far as NIBBI Amazon, I have zero affiliation with them. 

-------------------------------------

To everyone else, now that the cat is out of the bag, I am in the process of clearance in regard to NIBBI. I am switching to carry Keihin and Mukini only. MY reason for switching has nothing to do with NIBBI or the quality of their products. I only want to carry top shelf items so that's why I'm switching.... 

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